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4K views 3 replies 3 participants last post by  2013Tdi 
#1 ·
Does anyone have any experience (positive or negative) with catch cans helping with the carbon issue? The forge system blocks off the intake track completely, so I would think that this would be a hong kong no ****ter solution.
 
#2 ·
So I'm guessing no. Here's some info for those that haven't come across these guys.




Hey Scott,


I highly recommend you perform a manual intake valve cleaning as by 10k miles these engine have pretty severe intake valve coking already present. A solvent engine running cleaning may cause damage to the turbo's from the chunks impacting the hot side turbine leading edges and also if large enough, we see in some cases a piece stuck between the intake valve and valve seat allowing piston contact and bent valves.


Let me know if you need a step by step on it.


So, you should order the system for the Ford Ecoboost, and get the standard dual valve. Specify the make/model/year/engine of car so when we build the system it is correct. Get the "kit" so it has the cleanside separator as well that will replace your oil fill cap. Start app 1/2 way through video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JF3O6ChxBv0


In this video, the dirty, or foul side of the PCV system is discussed, and with our system the 2 in line check valves will prevent the internal PCV flap from getting stuck from boost pressure in the future (pass this all on if your on any forums, and also warn all to beware of the cheap RX knock-offs made in China. They are sold by rxspeedworks, gofastmuscle, or McNally. These are all cheap made in China copies that can come apart as they are glued and pressed together). The line that runs from the intake manifold to the valve cover will be interrupted (we will send several fittings so you can cut that line and install barbs into each end) by cutting it in the middle. The part from the IM will run to one outer fitting on the can with checkvalve flowing away from the can (this is a far higher quality valve than the flap inside that separator in the video). The center of the can, with no valve in line then connects to the portion of that stock line that connects to the valve cover. This will now provide evacuation when in non boost operation using the vacuum present. The second outer fitting on the can (outer's are outlets) will then run to a fitting you install as close to the turbo inlet (cold side) as you can. We will include a 3/8 NPT Tap to cut threads for the fittings. Use a 1/2" drill bit). It is important to get this close to the turbo inlet as there is where the strongest in boost suction is present to continue evacuation and greatly improve the evacuation function of the PCV system so it is always evacuated and no pressure can build (unlike the stock PCV that allows pressure to build during boost which causes a less stable piston ring (ring flutter) that robs power and increases blow-by).


Now we have the foul, or dirty portion of the PCV system covered, and no other "cathcan" comes close to the effectiveness in separation AND greatly improving crankcase evacuation.


Now we move to the clean, or fresh side of the PCV system. You will find a hose that runs from another portion of the valve cover that runs directly to the intake tube from the air filter assy. It will connect (could not find a diagram of it) just downstream of the MAF sensor. You will remove this tube (if it has a flow sensor in it that will need to be relocated to new line oriented in the same flow direction) and cap the barb/opening left on the valve cover as the incoming filtered, MAF metered, fresh air enters that point and we will be switching it to enter the billet CSS instead so it has the coalescing media in a separation chamber to stop any back-flow oil.


You will then run a hose from the CSS barb to another barb (the one the OEM line was removed from) in that intake tube just downstream of the MAF sensor.


Let me know if you followed this, and you will not believe the power restored after doing a manual valve cleaning. The degradation in power is gradual as the valve deposits grow, but the drastic change in power when going from coked valves to clean valves is amazing. 20-40 whp average! Fuel economy as well will improve some. This system will prevent most of this in the future, just empty can every few thousand miles (check in 1000 miles to see the rate it fills as all engines are different, then you will know how often to empty).


Ask any more questions so you understand it all. Have been an Automotive Engineer for over 40 years, and this is my specialty.


Best Regards,


Team RX
 
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