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13K views 17 replies 3 participants last post by  briano1234 
#1 ·
I hope this is the correct location for this. I need some opinions. I was messing around with trying some "new" wheels and I noticed the control arm was nice and rusty. poked a little at it and got the attached photo. It looks like the meat of the support is fine and the hole is just thin sheet. what would others do?:confused:


Rust Auto part
 
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#2 ·
Personally I would try to find a donor and cut and weld that as a whole part as if that side is bad the other isn't going to be far off.
That is a major safety issue and concern, and might cause me to ponder junking. or at least looking for a better frame and transfer yours to the donor.

Check the classifieds at the vwvortex.com and look for mk1 Rabbits /golf/cabriolets that are being parted out... as that is the main attachment for the control arm.
 
#5 ·
Well everything was going well exceepptt when one of the control arm bolts snapped off on the back 2. They are hidden and no way to get to them??? wth. anyone have ideas? i am trying to look but everything is newer models with independent subframes that can be replaced entirely.
 
#7 ·
spray with pb-blaster or Kroil about 3 times for 24 hours.
Buy a set of left handed drill bits.
Spray again with Kroil or Blaster 20 minutes prior.
Left handed bits in a reversible drill on reverse a hammer drill in reverse works really neat.
Center Punch the bolt if you can.
Get good clearance.
Choose a bit that is 3/4 the size of the bolt
Drill the bolt out in reverse.. It will cut for a while then bind and spin out. It will scare the snot out of you as it backs out as fast as the drill is spinning. and some times it backs out without notice .....
 
#9 ·
Dam you are making me thunkk as I cant remember if they are studs and not bolts Cut the thing off frame level, then Center punch it to raise the floor didn't have a good picture, so vagcat confirms they are studs.

Beat on the broken one up to dent the floor, then where the floor is raised Cut it off frame level, and Drill it out and replace with a grade 8 or 10 bolt, and weld that to the inner floor board.
 
#10 ·
They're welded in beating on it will just reshape the floor. If it's tapped there's enough meat in the stud left to take a new bolt, just, make sure it's a good thread.
It's in a box section if i remember right, some pics would be handy to trigger some old memory cells.
 
#11 ·
The Bentley shows them as bolts. Vagcat shows the bracket and nuts.... I don't have any pictures of that..... 1200 midnight I am on the floor of the Garage with a flashlight and a mirror.
Ok on my 93 there are studs with nuts on the rear control arm mount.
It doesn't appear to be on a hollow, but a beefed up portion. I just don't have good light... the car isn't going to be jacked tonight or tomorrow.. I have to sleep and work..
Drilling through the floor is a viable option. As well as if it is a hollow you would cut the hollow out and see if you can chisel it out and used a bolt to go back with, then weld up the hollow.

Lube all the other bolts with Kroil or PB-Blaster and you may want to use a air impact to do this they will remove bolts without breaking the stud as there is no torque load that a ratchet and socket can place on one side of the stud or the other as you are loosening it.

I broke off 3 exhaust studs once and took the head in to have removed and helicoiled. On the second cabby my pneumatic torque wrench Low profile butterfly... a 3/8 to 1/4 adapter a deep well socket, small extension spray with PB, and the nuts came off the stud or the whole stud came out easily.... I have only had the pneumatic for about 6 years, but it was a good investment in a compressor 25 gallon and wrench I have ever made.. for times like these.
 
#13 ·
Fixed it for ya.... :)

Depends on your Skill level.
Pull up your Carpet and Drill up in the center.
Insert grade 8 or 10 bolt, then tack weld it or use a wrench on the top and tighten from the bottom.
Insert bolt from top and weld it to the floor from the top (grind to bare metal).
Cut both off and drill out then install 2 bolts I don't think that it is a hollowed area...






pssssss When posting from Photobucket choose the link that says IMG to copy to the clip and paste that here.
 
#15 · (Edited)
You could try to use a punch and Punch the bolt bit up to dent the metal where the bolt is or use a small bit and drill through the bottom up to mark the 1/16 from the edge of the bolt.

Then tape off the bolt on the bottom spray the floor pan around the bolt with etching primer, followed with under coat to provide protection.

Apply Never-Seize to both bolts going back.
 
#16 ·
I found a picture of that mount... I kinda thought I did, but oil well.

 
#17 ·




well I finally got it welded up. Fully boxed on all sides. The needle gun took a largeeee amount of material out. Pretty solid now. Disregard the ugly welds. crappy feed i swear. Everthing is POR 15 now. Helpful hint: the high speed oscillating tools work great for undercoating removal. Went to change the struts and they didnt fit so ended up doing EVERYTHING. including ball joints and bushings. Found it hard not to when things are relatively cheap.

As far as the stud goes. there are rubber plugs that were underneath the rubber coating by the foot pedals. It wasnt big enough so I used a hole saw. As far as getting the actual bolt out i started drilling which lead to the standard broken drill bit. Ended up using an air hammer/chisel and it punched it right out. slipped a 3/8 in and its great now.
 
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