Having trouble getting my 1983 Rabbit running right

[82Wabbit]

I've owned several air cooled VW's and am used to doing all the work myself. A few days ago I moved to watercooled and bought an 83 Rabbit Convertible (Triple White), fuel injected. This car has 89,000 miles, probably has 25,000 miles in the last 14 years from the service records I found and was in storage the last 5 years. It took a couple of times to get it started, but ran good once going. But it has gone downhill since then and I could really use some advice.

Here are the symptom:

A bit rough to get started, have to try varying degrees of acceleration to get it going, but once it starts it stays running. Driving it, it feels like it is missing a bit. Getting harder to start and seems to be missing more as the days go on.

Here's what I have done:

First I filled up the tank with gas, it topped off at about 6 gallons. Used 87 octane, no ethanol. Still running rough, so I replaced all the vacuum hoses (all cracked). No change so I put in a bottle of Seafoam and drove it down the interstate and back totaling about 40 miles. No change so today I replaced the spark plugs. No change.

Any suggestions? Thought I'd try new plug wires tomorrow.

(Oh, in case you are wondering why my username does not match the car, I registered for this forum before I bought the car, thought it was an 82, then found out it was a 83.)

[Twocams]

I would have drained all the old gas out...but thats me. Replace the fuel filter. Check for leaks at the fuel pump hoses. In fact I would replace all the rubber hoses fuel, air. Plugs, wires. Check the injectors and change the rubber "O" rings attached. Check the timing. Looks like a nice clean car.

Rich

[82Wabbit]

Today I replaced the fuel filter and the air filter. No change, but now I'm noticing a couple of things:

1. When I just start to press the accelerator the car wants to just about die. This happens every time now that I push the gas pedal. If I can get past the drop in RPM, it does keep running but sputters. It will run at idle okay without an issues, just when I accelerate.

2. I thought I read that you should hear one of the fuel pumps when you start the car. If true, I don't hear any. Should I and if I'm not, could this be why I have trouble getting the car started? (Once started it starts okay every time, but I still have the conditions described in #1 above).

I will order the suggested plugs wires tomorrow and get them installed. Cringe at replacing all the fuel lines, but agree that is a good suggestion.

Thanks!

[briano1234]

on the 82, there is one a single fuel pump, and you should hear it Prime with the key on but not in start. If your Pump is still encased in the Styrofoam jacket, you may not hear it....

Check for Vacuum leaks, then do the fuel pressure tests that are outlined in the bentley. You may have the proper pressure on the fuel, but the quantity that it puts out may be restrictive as in low.

[82Wabbit]

Ordered a Bentley manual off of ebay yesterday, know how valuable they can be.

While we are on topic of things that need to be done, does the 83 have an interference or non-interference engine? In any case, I assume with 89,000 miles at 29 years old and no record of replacement, it would just make sense to replace it anyway. I've never worked on cars newer than my 72's, so this will be a learning experience. I've always left timing chains to "the professionals".

Lastly, any moderators know how to change my username to 83Wabbit instead of 82Wabbit?

[jettncab]

Engine details here: http://www.cabby-info.com/engine.htm

Your '83 has only one fuel pump. If it's original to the car, replace it.

As can be said with buying any old car, give it a complete tune-up (plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, air filter, fuel filter, etc.), change the oil and oil filter, and flush the cooling system. Check for and fix any vacuum leaks. Make sure it is timed properly too.

Since the car sat for a number of years, you need to address the fuel system. No need to go replacing fuel lines unless they are cracking and/or leaking. What you do need to do is clean the fuel system: the injectors, the fuel distributor, the control pressure regulator, the cold-start valve; that info is provided here http://www.cabby-info.com/fuel.htm#CIS . You should then do all of the procedures outlined here: http://www.cabby-info.com/cis.htm (including testing the Lambda components).

In any case, I assume with 89,000 miles at 29 years old and no record of replacement, it would just make sense to replace it anyway.

No, it wouldn't make any sense to do that just because of mileage and a starting/running problem. These engines are known to rack up hundreds of thousands of miles if properly cared for.

Finally, nice Wolfsburg Edition you've got there.

[82Wabbit]

THANKS!!!

I do plan to do all the items you recommended. I've learned with my older VW's that you really need to replace just about everything if you want to dare take it out of town.

Thanks for the kind words about my find. It came with all the repair records from day one through 1991. It appears it was well taken care of (was undercoated and had Auto Armour treatment right off the bat) and I'm just guessing as it got older they could not afford to keep it up.

Discovered today that the brake line leak is coming from the metal line in front of the rear passenger tire. OMG, it is impossible to seperate the hose from the line, all rusted and no way to get a wrench up there. I'm going to look for a way to reroute the brake cable!

[briano1234]

You can order replacement hard rubber lines or Stainless Steel jacketed ones to replace, then take it to a AutoParts store and match it up to a line, then bend and fit.

Napa sells the rubber lines front and back, and the metric lines they usually carry in stock, it is just a matter to bend it without kinking them.


http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volks...let/Brake/26/1
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volks...et/Brake/302/1

[82Wabbit]

Would this unconnected device have anything to do with the running rough (still waiting for my Bentley to arrive, so right now this is all a treasure hunt to find whats what)?

I did try to reconnect it but when I started the car it blew the black hose off of the top and I saw what looked like smoke come out. There is also an unplugged wire harness behind all this, as seen in picture, but I have no clue where it plugs in.

[briano1234]

That is a idle enrichment valve, it has to be connected, if it isn't or it's bad, then the car can bleed unmetered air and suck at running. Usually on a/c cars there are 2 of them.

You can replace that hose with a new vacuum line.

[82Wabbit]

I guess since it blew the hose off, plus the smoke (and the previous owner had unplugged it), that it probably is bad and should be replaced?

[jettncab]

Idle boost valve.

1.7L's have a boost valve only if A/C is factory installed; otherwise, they have none.
1.8L's have one boost valve, two if A/C is factory installed.

The boost valve could very well be stuck open. There could also be a problem with A/C system (compressor kicking on supplies signal to boost valve to open). Check the voltage signal to the valve at the harness connector. The problem could also lie in incorrect air-fuel settings and/or other vacuum leaks and/or timing.

The "connector" in the background of your photo is for testing the duty cycle, which is explained here (and is something you should do): http://www.cabby-info.com/cis.htm .

[82Wabbit]

Oh my! After visiting that site and reading the information I realize working on Rabbits may well be above my skill level. I'm a little worried now, as it appears there are so many complicated parts of this car and I just may not be able to get it running right without the help of some professionals. Do VW dealerships still work on these? They going to cost an arm and a leg?

Got my Bentley manual in the mail yesterday, It's three times as thick as the one for my VW super beetle from just 11 years earlier! Again, Oh My!

[zstamp19]

Yea they are for sure a different beast I'm learning that as well I've had a couple buses a 71 and 76 westy and these are way different. But everyone on here is good about giving advice. And if you go on the cabby info website that they gave you above it shows some good shops in about every state to go to if you need help. I licked out and have one here in Lexington but I have had to go just yet.

Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2

[zstamp19]

Lucked stupid autocorrect

Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk 2

[thedopefishlives]

Oh my! After visiting that site and reading the information I realize working on Rabbits may well be above my skill level. I'm a little worried now, as it appears there are so many complicated parts of this car and I just may not be able to get it running right without the help of some professionals. Do VW dealerships still work on these? They going to cost an arm and a leg?

Got my Bentley manual in the mail yesterday, It's three times as thick as the one for my VW super beetle from just 11 years earlier! Again, Oh My!

Don't get intimidated. Sure, a Rabbit is a bit more technologically advanced than an old-school air cooled VW, but for all that they are still fairly simple beasts and just need a patient hand to be tamed. Kam and the folks at cabby-info are pretty good at breaking it down into simple steps.

[82Wabbit]

Thanks! A good night sleeps, some Tylenol for my aches and pains after replacing all those brake lines, I'm not quite as discouraged today. I'm just not sure what to do next. I suppose check the fuel injectors and the O rings.

Oh, couple of new things I found. Sounds like the catalytic converter has a leak or something (I really hear something from that area when I rev the engine). I do smell fumes when I run it, but not the talked about "rotten egg" smell. But it is stronger than normal exhaust fumes. Could it be part of my running rough problem? Just hate to replace it if something else is the problem as I read poor running engines can damage a catalytic converter.

Also, the vacuum container that attaches to the inside of the roof, I think the seal on it may need to be replaced. The plastic hose slides in and out without too much effort. I'll try to plug it up tonight and also do the carb spray test I read about in another post.

[briano1234]

82, clear the cat.... or replace it with a hollowed out one.

The Egg crate you can use silicone on it to reseal the grommet.

[82Wabbit]

Just for clarification (in case it matters), mine is a 1983 convertible, not an 82 (still trying to get my username changed to 83Wabbit).

That said, I have two concerns regarding the catalytic converter. One, it's really rusted on there and wondering how easy it will be to get it off. May need to find someone with a hot enough torch to break the bond. Second, I read that if your car is not running well it can damage the catalytic converter. Am I risking doing that quickly if I replace it before we find the problem? (I guess I should not be driving it until we fix it so all is a mute point).

Brian - I've linked up with Phatatude here in Omaha today and he speaks very highly of you - claims everything he knows is due to your assistance. And wanted me to say Hi!

Thanks!

[briano1234]

A Sawsall will remove a CAT. No welding required save to put a piece of straight pipe on.

Well that is really rather nice. I used to live in Newtaxes in the 90's near 107th and Center. I got my 8mm triple square tool from a Air-Cooled store
Cram's I think.... That was when my Diesel Rabbit was only 12 years old....

Used to work at 156th and Center. Hated Snow, and the winter started OCT 31 that first year... 3 foot 20below, they had to cancel Halloween for 2 weeks.
Otherwise very flat, and taxes are out-the-wazoooo.