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Thread: Nevermind previous posts, Problem ='s Thrown Rod Bearing

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    Junior Member rmcard is a jewel in the rough rmcard's Avatar
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    Nevermind previous posts, Problem ='s Thrown Rod Bearing

    After much closer inspection it turns out my problem is a desentigrated rod bearing on the #1 cylinder. I probably would have spotted it sooner if I knew what to look for because you can definantly tell there had been a problem in that area due to charred burnt oil deposits at the base of the connecting rod and either side of it's journal on the crankshaft.

    I'm sure I didn't help matters by running the engine in that condition for a few minutes trying to figure out if it could be something simple

    I removed the cap and could see quite a bit of galling on the crankshaft journal itself and from the looks of the connecting rod bearing seat at the very least I'm going to have to replace the connecting rod for that piston. I hope the crankshaft is still repairable.

    The crank must be fed oil beginning at the trans end of the engine because everything towards the trans end of the engine appears to be in fine shape. One thing I probably should have looked at was the front main bearing at the pulley end of the engine because I'm thinking it could have very well been starved of oil also.

    Conclusion: complete engine overhaul (when I can get around to it!)

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    Super Moderator briano1234 has a reputation beyond repute briano1234 has a reputation beyond repute briano1234 has a reputation beyond repute briano1234 has a reputation beyond repute briano1234 has a reputation beyond repute briano1234 has a reputation beyond repute briano1234 has a reputation beyond repute briano1234 has a reputation beyond repute briano1234 has a reputation beyond repute briano1234 has a reputation beyond repute briano1234 has a reputation beyond repute briano1234's Avatar
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    Re: Nevermind previous posts, Problem ='s Thrown Rod Bearing

    Sorry to hear, but yeah it happens. A spun bearing can block oil ports to the bearings....
    But on a side note, afterthe rebuild with normal maintenance, you should be good for about 350K.

    Roundtoits are a difficulty that is hard to overcome. I have had them things on the back burner for years.
    What do Divorces, Great Coffee and Cars all have in common?
    They all Start with good GROUNDS.
    Replace all of them that you can, 99 percent of flakiness will disappear.


    92, 93 Cabriolet.... 89, and 90 are Deceased.


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    Junior Member rmcard is a jewel in the rough rmcard's Avatar
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    Re: Nevermind previous posts, Problem ='s Thrown Rod Bearing

    Hi Briano,

    Thanks for the comments to my posts but I do have an extra question or two now that I actually know what the problem is.

    My main concern is the crank, should I get it checked for cracks (meaning; pay extra money) to insure it's integrety before I have it ground? it was pretty crusty around the #1 rod journal where it must have got pretty hot, I'd hate to have the crank break after all the time and expense of a rebuild.

    I should have checked the journal diameter at the time (but I didn't) so I'm not sure right now if it's beyond repair size wise and now that the car is off the jackstands and pushed back outside it aint gonna see the barn again til the motor comes out. (which could be a month or two).

    For the car body showing only 140,000 miles the engine did look practically brand new inside with yellow paint on all the main and rod nuts, except for the rod that went bad. So I'm thinking it had a problem with that rod that someone tried to repair in the car, like changed a rod bearing when they also should have changed the rod. If the yellow paint is indicative of a factory build and not a remanufacture then I have more a possibility that there is still some grind meat left on the crank. (OR the heat just happened to burn off the paint so what I just said means nothing)

    I did happen to wrangle a old 82 diesel motor off my brother yesturday that he had laying around but then discovered thru searching ebay that the 81 model year crank is unique. Come to think of it I'm making an assumption that the car still has the original motor in it and I need to discover how to verify what year motor I actually do have or if someone possibly frankenmotored it. The car has an A/C sticker in the engine compartment as well as the A/C controls on the dash but there is not a hint of a compressor, condensor or evaporator coil (unless the evaporator is inside the dash somewhere). So between that and the nasty looking wiring in the engine compartment the car has had some serious alterations.

    Lastly, whats your favorite website for engine and vw related parts? I live only 45 minutes away from "The Parts Place" service counter but some of their prices seem more in line with porsche than vw. Specifically speaking, beyond the engine my car is gonna need weatherstripping, lotsa lotsa fresh weatherstripping (and maybe a floorpan or two).

  5. #4
    Super Moderator briano1234 has a reputation beyond repute briano1234 has a reputation beyond repute briano1234 has a reputation beyond repute briano1234 has a reputation beyond repute briano1234 has a reputation beyond repute briano1234 has a reputation beyond repute briano1234 has a reputation beyond repute briano1234 has a reputation beyond repute briano1234 has a reputation beyond repute briano1234 has a reputation beyond repute briano1234 has a reputation beyond repute briano1234's Avatar
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    Re: Nevermind previous posts, Problem ='s Thrown Rod Bearing

    I would take the crank in and have it trued, as the journals may need to be turned as they are out of spec to each other, and that the bearings that you need to buy would be oversized.
    What do Divorces, Great Coffee and Cars all have in common?
    They all Start with good GROUNDS.
    Replace all of them that you can, 99 percent of flakiness will disappear.


    92, 93 Cabriolet.... 89, and 90 are Deceased.


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