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17K views 14 replies 8 participants last post by  generalquark 
#1 ·
Hey Folks,

I've been working on this leak for about a month and think i have the source isolated. I initially thought i was leaking diesel from the threads of my stop solenoid, so i cleaned them extra well and after snugging it down very snuggly i quickly saw that the leak was actually coming from a seam/joint on the IP. When looking at the IP as it is mounted in my 84 rabbit the leaking seam is about 1 cm left of the stop solenoid. It is the at the connection of the cast piece of metal that the solenoid threads into and what looks like it would be called the main housing of the IP. Fuel is leaking from this seam at about 4-8 oz. per minute (doesn't sound like much, but it is a very steady drip). Leak only happens when running. After sitting 6-10 days, i do get air in the lines and have a beast of a time getting it started again. This is enough of a problem, I have clear line from the filter to the IP so that I can easily see if there is air in the line.

My question is this, should I replace the IP or is there a more cost effective way to fix this leak? could I goop some gasket sealer or jb weld in there or is this a high-pressure situation that needs some respectable work to fix?

It appears that there are 4 bolts that fasten this piece of cast metal to the main housing of the IP (3 hex key bolts and 1 flathead bolt). I have tried to tighten these bolts to no avail. Bently's doesn't say anything about working on the IP.

Suggestions anyone?
 
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#2 ·
Well today is your lucky day I feel generous. There is a way to repair aluminum breaks... It isn't a glue.

I would try this, You are going to have to remove your injection pump and drain the fuel.

On ebay you will find item number 360348322586.

I personally have never done this, but my brother repaired his 66 corvette manifold with this stuff and he swears by it.
Cleanliness is a must and you have to prep the parts with Stainless Steel brushes. He has repaired Stipped aluminum holes and cracks.
He even modified his 89 vette manifold with this..

Your results are based on your skill. But if you go for a new pump, they can refuse your core as it is not usable and then you get hit for the full monty...

But I would give it a try at least.
 
#3 ·
Briano, do you sleep?

Thanks for the quick reply, but it sounds like i was a little bit too vague. I don't have any cracked metal (that i know of). My guess is that there is supposed to be a seal or gasket where the leak is coming from, but since i am unfamiliar with the anatomy of a diesel fuel injection pump, i am not sure if this is DIY task or send-it-in-for-rebuild task. I read a few other posts, one where he rebuilt the IP, it didn't work, he pulled it again and next time it miraculously worked, and he said he would probably go with a reman. next time instead of doing the work himself. So this led me to think that though it is possible and no specialized tools required, it must be a lot of hassle.

I will try to get some pics up this week to show exactly what i'm trying to describe.

Thanks,
MB
 
#4 ·
Ok, you are probably talking about were the Injection manifold attaches to the body of the injector pump housing, one piece is steel, and the body is aluminum.

I do believe that there is a o-ring gasket between the two pieces, but it has been over 10 years since I took one apart. You could probably find that o-ring at a good hardware or auto speed shop.

See http://volkswagenownersclub.com/vw/showthread.php/23947-Replacement-Rebuilt-1.6-Diesel-Injector-Pump it has good pictures there of a re-manned pump.
 
#5 ·
There is an O ring between the steel distributor head and the aluminum housing that contains a reservoir that holds fuel under low pressure. This is where the fuel you see leaking is coming from. The old original O ring is susceptible to decomposition/breakdown from the different chemistry of new ultra low sulfur & biodiesel. Some old pumps will leak some will not.. mine did.

It is not that hard to replace the O ring by removing the four bolts that hold the distributor head to the pump body but there are two very heavy strong springs that are part of the high pressure stage of the pump and put a lot of pressure on the distributor head. The bolts will come out easily under spring pressure but its tough to get it back together with the pump on the engine. Also there are rollers that ride on a cam plate that will fall out of place with the pump in the hortizontal position.

Therefore, from my experience, you should remove the pump from the engine and work on it with the pump in the verticle position so all the internal parts will stay put. It will also be a lot easier to reinstall the distributor head to the pump body applying the pressure required to start the bolts.

Of course removing the pump from the engine, requires reinstalling and special tools to retime it.

It's quite a lot of work for a lousy leak but there's not a lot of options. I did mine on the engine but got something out of place; it ran but it had no power. I wound up rebuilding my engine and had the pump professionally rebuilt.

I got my O ring (this is not something that you can pick-up at the hardware store, this is a Bosch part) from Parts Place part # SN17277, for $17.80, that was a few years ago. 248 373-2300.
 
#6 ·
That o-ring can be replaced with the pump in the car. I found a description of how to do this on the WWW, and followed it successfully. The springs do want to escape, so what you do is only take two out at a time. Loosen the four screws until you can just see the o-ring. Remove the old o-ring carefully with a pick and trash it. Take two screws out and stretch the o-ring over the fuel distributer. Then put the two screws back in, and then take the other two out. The new o-ring is now in the groove and you can put the pump back together.
 
#8 ·
If you did, or do end up removing the pump, you will have to time it when it goes back in. Not a real big deal, but you need to buy, or make if you are so equipt, a depth micrometer to fit the injection pump. The last time I timed my pump, I found there was conflicting data as to the desired value. I've got VW OEM literature, that recommends as low as 0.032". I tried .038" on my NA A1 1.6 Diesel, which was the highest recommendation I found. (They go to 0.04" on the turbos.) This made a tremendous improvement in my fuel economy. Best tank to date is 65MPG easy cruisin, avg around town runs 50-55mpg. That leaves me wondering about how to do a real time MPG meter again.
 
#9 ·
I live near Indianapolis, if you live anywhere near there and want to do mine (I have a bad leak also) let me know. I don't know squat about fixing them and I only get 38 mpg with an 82 rabbit . I also have a valve cover leaking and thought if I put a new gasket on I should adjust the valves. Is that hard? If not, exactly how would I do that? Keep in mind it took me almost 3 months to change out a heater blower motor!!
Thanks for the help.
 
#11 ·
You need to create a account at image shack, or photobucket, upload the pics from your camera, to your computer then you login to your image account and using the accounts buttons upload your pictures to there. (Create Sub Albums for different groups). Then in photobucket which I use there are pre-set links to your pictures copy the link that is in between the
and post it in your thread here.

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Of course I placed the
 
#12 ·
Hi,
I was reading on the message board and I have a leak between the 2 housings, and was trying to do what you suggested, taking a couple screws out at a time, but after having all the screws loose, the housings will not separate easily. I was wondering if you have to pry them apart? I don't want to break anything. I have taken out 5 screws that are in the side and I even removed the silenoid. I don't need to remove the plug piece that is used for positioning it after installing the new pump right? I would like to try replacing the seal with it in the car as I don't have the tools to time the car. Does anyone who has done this have any experience to add. I was also wondering what site the original instructions were found on. BadRabbit said " I found a description of how to do this on the WWW, and followed it successfully." Does anyone have the link to this. Thanks to everyone who posts on these boards. I don't really post much now, but I use it alot to help me out. I appreciate all your guy's help.
Ben
 
#13 ·
generalquark,

Sorry I don't have a link to the description. but it is really pretty easy. The local diesel repair shop was a bit shocked when I told them you could do it in the car. Just make sure you have two diagonally opposed screws about three turns in at all times, or you will be learning how to overhaul the pump when the springs fly out. Loosen the four screws, pull them out one at a time and run them back in three turns. The distributer head ( iron piece the fuel lines screw into) is the male piece, and has an o-ring groove cut into its outside diameter. That o-ring, and/or some corrosion is holding it into the pump housing. With the screws loose, but still in, you could try tapping it with a rubber hammer, if that does not do it, I'd suggest wedging them apart with one or two utility knife blades, use a brass drift to tap on them. Take it easy, because once it moves at all, it will come loose easy. Then follow my prior description. Stop pulling the distributor head when you can see the o-ring.
 
#15 ·
I found what was wrong. I had missed a screw that I had not seen before in the back on the bottom. There are about 8 screws when you count removing the cold start cable bracket. After removing the last screw, it pushed out. Did any of you remove the top of the injection pump when doing this to see that the linkage was as far to the right as possible. I was watching a video of a guy doing it on a newer one, and he said that you needed to crank the engine so the linkage inside the injection pump was over as far to the right as possible or you could lose a piece down in the pump and it would be shot. I was not sure if this is only for the newer tdi's or the old bosch injector pumps also? I have it all together and it seems to have stopped leaking. Thanks for replying and thanks to everyone who posts on this board.
 
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