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59K views 12 replies 10 participants last post by  briano1234 
#1 · (Edited)
I have read that many head gasket issues are the result of the head gasket moving during head replacement.

This could be very true because we read about people with oil in their coolant even after a new head gasket job.

So here is a tip to keep that gasket perfectly square without a doubt:

1. After removing the old head bolts, use a cut wheel and cut off all the ratchet ends.

2. Use the cut wheel or a Dremel Tool and cut slots in the ends of the bolts that you cut. You should be able to put a flat screw driver in these slots.

3. Screw in and hand tighten these guide studs that you just made into the block.

4. Slide the new gasket over these, then the head.

5. Remove each stud - unscrew with the flat head and remove with magnet - one at a time and screw in the new head bolts.


Guaranteed perfect gasket placement.











Enjoy.
 
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#2 ·
Good tip, as you have to replace the bolts anyways.
 
#3 ·
I doit with those metal bars they sale at homedepot there about 4ft long varyus saises pick a 2mm thiner than the screw and cut them 11/2 in. longer than the screw place them in the corners slide the gasket and the cilinder head place 4 new head screws in the center hand tighten remove the bars replacewith new screws follow specsand secuence
 
#4 ·
If you are doing a diesel, here's a better solution. Use studs instead of head bolts. Perfect alignment, superior, even torque & sealing.

I had constant trouble trying to torque my diesel head down with new head bolts. I couldn't get the bolts to take the proper torque. The bolts would stretch for some reason while tightening (using Bently Manual procedures) to the point I thought they might break! (I know they are supposd to stretch some). I startered again with another set of new head bolts (and head gasket). I ran a tap into the block holes to make sure the threads were clean and it happened again.

Ran across a broucher that I had received in the mail 15 years ago, celebrating the merits of using studs instead of head bolts on the 1.5 VW diesels which had problems with leaking head gaskets. I called the number thinking it would be long obsolete but to my surprise they answered the call and it was the same company.

They still sold the stud kit for the 1.5/1.6l, 11mm studs, VW diesel engines (as well as many other VW diesel engines). I ordered a set (not cheap) for $204.45 shipped. Now using my third head gasket, the studs solved the problem and the engine has been running now for several years. They have different torque settings for their stud set and it is a lot less than head bolt specs (somewhere around 40 ft.lb. for final tightening). They hold their torque and never have to be retightened.

Raceware Engineering 866 629-0492
 
#9 ·
Depending on if they are aftermarket, or stock, you will need a 12mm Triple square, or a 12mm Allen.

Here is what the tool looks like:
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Cabriolet/Engine/104/1

Some after market bolts are 6 point Allen, either way seat the tool firmly in the head of the bolt with a couple of taps of a hammer.
Bolts are not re-usable, they are a one time use only.

The only way to tell which bolt that you have is to remove the valve cover.
 
#10 ·
Baum Tools sells a removable dowel pin set for VW heads. There are two sizes included in the set, 11 x 1.5 and 12 x 1.5mm. 11mm for early gas and diesel 12mm for later models. Also included is an arbour with left hand thread to remove the dowels. These dowels are short enough that installing an early diesel or gas head can be done by one person. The cut off bolts are a bit long and may gouge the head even with a helper assisting. Although the cut off bolt is a great idea, I would not want to use that method when I did heads a couple of times a month when I was working.

Ainokea
 
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