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94K views 40 replies 14 participants last post by  2.5house 
#1 · (Edited)
Okay. biggreek has loved his 2008 rabbit for every mile of it's 100,000 miles. He loves it to death with the only exception being the transmission. After all who wants a car that practically drives itself? Like most he wanted to actually DRIVE the vehicle rather than have it shifting when IT wanted.

His lucky day came when the transmission started to shift funny and it began to flame out. His options were limited to replacing the transmission with an OEM new unit, attempt to have an outside shop rebuild this complex beast, or put in a low mileage manual gearbox. The choice was obvious! He contacted me about this little project and it didn't take long before we were about to attempt the impossible. Nobody has done this swap before on this particular vehicle and nobody knew where to begin.

I decided to study the parts diagrams and wiring diagrams long before I had the car. Below is a list of items you will need to obtain in order for this swap to take place. I will limit this to a mechanical parts list.
Upper and lower heater hoses
Shifter housing box
Shifter cables
Shifter cable bracket
Intermediate mount (goes between transmission and trans mount bolted to frame)
Axles
Flywheel
Clutch/pressure plate
Clutch release arm/bearing combo
Clutch pedal
All needed hardware for assembly (auto transmission hardware will not work for most holes)
Shim between engine/transmission
Slave cylinder
hydraulics between clutch pedal and slave
Brake pedal assembly for manual transmission

Parts you need to modify to work:
Knock out the plug in the firewall to fit the clutch pedal
Snip the tip of the master cylinder reservoir

Control modules that need to be re-coded:
Gateway- Code out the transmission module, be sure to disconnect the trans module or pull the 20 amp fuse for it.
Steering column module- code for manual
Engine (may not be possible, may need manual transmission ECM) Recode from 3 to 1 for auto. If cannot be recoded then have a tuner retune ECM for manual. Or, buy a manual ecm for your year and emissions type.
Possibly ABS, Depends on ECM

Step one. Remove the center console front half. If you have an armrest you can leave this in as we only need the front done. Unbolt the nuts holding the shifter in place. There should be four nuts. Remove the metal bracket in front of the shifter to expose the other two nuts.

Disconnect the electrical connectors going to the shifter handle once the console has been removed. Remove left footwell trim. Knock out plug where clutch pedal should go indicated by studs in the plenum.

Remove the brake pedal. This can be done by sliding two flat head screwdrivers on the left and right sides of the rod that connects from the brake booster to the pedal. Once you press in the screwdrivers to release the tabs the pedal can be pulled back by another person to release it from the ball. Unbolt the pedal from the plenum and remove. There may be a bolt on the steering column holding an odd limiter bracket to prevent the pedal from coming out. Remove this as the manual cars do not have it. Installation is the reverse of removal.

Install the clutch pedal and install with three nuts onto the studs. Two on bottom, one on top.

Next is to get down and dirty!
Remove the battery and battery tray. This will expose the transmission top and shifter cables. Remove the shifter cable from the transmission using a flathead driver to pry it off the ball mount. Pry off the C-clip holding the cable to the bracket. This will free up the cable from the transmission.

Raise and support vehicle. Support engine. Remove the catalytic converter from the manifold and disconnect the clamp at the other end. I was able to disconnect one end but you may not get so lucky. Remove the heat shield just above the exhaust. This will expose the shifter box and cable. Because the nuts are already out this should fall out. The box and cable are all attached so set them aside. Now you can install your manual shifter and cables. Start a nut or two inside the car once it's in so it doesn't fall out.

TBC.....
 
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#3 ·
There won't be any photos......but all I can do is a description.
 
#5 ·
Hey guys!, Moose thanks again man, Im glad for a awesome dude, like you, go into a project blind folded and complete it(Well almost.LOL) , and one that has never been done before. And me (with the parental's assistance.lol) let you go ahead with this feat of a project. Now depending on what Chris finds out here in the next day or two, the ecu will MOST likely need to be reprogrammed. I had contacted a bloke named Jeff Atwood, he used to be the software guy for C2, he now has his own company called United Motorsports. I emailed him my issue and his response was, I think I can help (best words to ever come out of anyone). He can re-flash the ECU with manual software and it be a manual ecm. So HOPEFULLY that will work out, we just have to cross our fingers.....
 
#8 · (Edited)
ok, so a couple of question to keep the thread going... hopefully we can talk on the phone, cause i might have more questions:

1)did you have to get different harnesses? such as a new engine harness?
2) whats the Upper and lower heater hoses?? where do they plug? here can i get em?
3) whats the hydraulics between clutch pedal and slave?? the clutch line?
4) how did you plug the new trans to en ecu? meaning, how does the car now knows when is it on reverse???
5) i have heard lots of things about connecting the speed sensor to the new tranny???

as stated before on the pm, but for the rest this is my build thread:
http://thygreyt.jettamkv.com

and this is so far what i have for the tranny swap:

--transmission
--starter
--axles
--shifter cables
--shifter assembly
--clutch, flywheel, pressure plate
--clutch pedal
--brake pedal
--transmission mount
--Clutch master cylinder
--Clutch slave cylinder
--Wiring harnesses for a 2.5 manual
--Transmission fluid
-- clutch hydraulic line.
 
#9 ·
You dont need a new master, all you do is snip a nipple on the reservoir.

For the hydraulics from the pedal to the slave is a line that goes from the res to the slave, since you obv didnt have that there before.

I know he didnt need to get a new harness, everythign is controlled from the ecu. As far as i know the reverse lights dont work, unless they rigged something up.

The heater hoses are exactly what they are, for the coolant, you have an auto that requires coolant to cool off the tranny. New hoses take care of the not needing the cooling issue. I just reviewed some etka diagrams, they look like the same pns, but have a model of either auto or manual so it confused me a bit.

Ill let moose chime in and if he doesnt ill let him know the interest on sunday.
 
#11 ·
Reading the usp description, u have part of the system i believe...

Where does this product install?
This product replaces the rubber line that is located between the clutch master cylinder hard line and the slave cylinder bleeder connection.

lemme look through etka in a minute.
 
#15 ·
now my main issue is with the ECU.

do i have to get a new one or do i can i recode it with vag com and unitronic..?? and how..?
 
#16 ·
As far i know, it depends...i think every ecu can be coded either way, but they were having some kind of issues.

Im thinking the owner (biggreek) was in contact with a tuner to help out. If moose doesnt respond, which i think he will ill ask him in depth on sunday, ill prolly be over at his house.
 
#17 ·
please tell him to send me an email or something.
i'd love to have everything solved out prior to having tha tranny swapped.
 
#18 ·
Call you tonight with full details. I have to update this thread too.
 
#21 ·
Yes it is. You can try PMing Biggreek to find out how it's going.
 
#22 ·

the swap has begun... i m uploading directly to facebook... but tonight i'll put all of it here.



so, the story of today, depicted... and pics of the mods.

i'm trying to have the mod list with a pic of every single mod, so since the car was apart, i did my best to take pics to each and every single non stock part...

here it goes:

here, i started messing with the rear bumper, in order to cut it and make the quad exhaust...


as it turns out, 09+ are a lot more different from earlier years in a couple other ways.... for example, the evaps thingy is not on the middle of the spares, as in the previous years... look at where it is now:



so in order to do the quad exhaust, we would need to relocate the thing. ](*,)

we'll see if we can do it in the timeframe... its actually something that i REALLY REALLY want... so imma try and push it.


anyways, the swap story:

since there is no battery, the start was rather fast... it was unplugging all the connectors and harnesses.
here they removed the intake.


then i went to lunch, when i came back, this is what i find:

09g is officially out.


then it was connecting the single mass flywheel...


then, kaboom! clutch and pressure plate are in and torqued...


then we brough them together:
09g meet your nemesis: 02q.


after measuring carefully, we determined the amount to grind/ shave from the 02q..



afterwards, i got bored while they took care of some other cars, and well... i installed the short shifter:




and now, well pics of the mods that cant usually be seen:

drilled/slotted brakes


neuspeed power pulley.


bsh pendulum mount


here you can see the front sway bar, the whiteline control arms, the neuspeed insert for the pendulum, and the pendulum


today we started with the dissassembly of the interior...

we needed to remove the stock shifter+ cables+else.


this are some of the parts on the dashboard:


then it was re-measuring of the tranny and put it in.


then they lifter the tranny and bolted it up


by this point, its official: a 2.5L i5 6Spd MT. :bow: :143:


then its wiggle time, and mount it to the body...


then it was all bolted up...! :D looks purty



it was all good, all was to be done tomorrow... and well, we discovered that i hadnt bought one part...


the main clutchline was missing. the clutch line is made of 2 parts: 1 section from the tranny to the slave cyl and one section from the slave cyl to the master (pedal).. so we ordered it today around 4.

so.. almost done.. and well, hope you like'


btw, nitro, if you could send/post the wiring chnages, it would be a lot of help!
 
#23 ·
well it looks like you have yourself a decent project going. Good luck with the rest of it! And idk if Chris has told you about the reverse light issue, but I dont have reverse lights, nor does the car recognize that it is in reverse. So idk.

Mine is still running strong, just crossed 110k the other day. And still, I am not chip tuned, so yes I still have a CEL. I have tried to contact Jeff at UM plenty of times and I haven't heard from him since February when this whole thing was done and over with. So I MIGHT go with someone different. :(
 
#24 ·
so, the work of today...

shamefully the car wont be done till tomorrow... but we only have some minimal stuff to do till then.. mostly the fooling of the ECU.

mecanically, we are done...

this was the holdback


we were missing a part of the clutch line...

but that arrived today and we solved the issue

but before we could install the clutch pedal, we needed to remove the brake and install both... BUT in order for the clutch pedal to be installed, i needed to re wire some of my stuff, including the battery cable, the O2 sensor for the AFR and rhe fog lights harness...

so i took the whole thing appart.


as you can see the clutch hole is till occupied!


after 2 hours of wire removal (including the fog harness...) i finally had the clutch opening available! :D


so, i was so happy that before the removal of the cables, that i decided to mock up the clutch pedal..!

it looks good... but the brake is still to big for a manual.
and as you can see there are a lot of cables from the CECM cause i needed to re wire the fogs... :(

so after another hour, we were finally able to remove the brake pedal, and install the clutch, and i decided to put the accel pedal too.


then i sort of put the shifter on to do further muck ups...!
i like the way it looks...


these are the O2 sensor cables, the fogs and the battery wire...

at this point i still hadnt re wired.

by this point, we connected the clutch line and we started bleeding the system..! i was supper excited


by this time, the system was sort of bled, and the pedal had feeling!!! :D


here is the short shifter and 42dd cable bushings.

funny thing... the shifter was delivered by hand from MR. General manager of forge USA. lol.
his car too was at the shop, and we brought the shifter.
and well, yes, i had neuspeed, but i must say that forge is WAY better. in every aspect.
its better made, it meets all of the OEM tolerances, and its made to be compatible with all mkvs.
that being said, i'm returning my neuspeed, and from now on, FORGE!


and now, last pic of the day...


all rewired, and connected. everything is good!
we even turned the car on, and try the tranny... it works!!! flawlessly...

now all we have left for tomorrow is some 3-5 hours of re wiring the ignintion and fooling the ECU..

while i will put the interior back on. we had to take it appart to put the shifter...

tomorrow i'll do my first 6sd drive!!! can wait.

till then~

so, last day... last post, since its DONE! :D

today we fixed and put together the forge shifter and the bushings... they were a bit to tight..


the i started putting the interior back together, while European Auto tuning was doing the wiring and figuring out it all.


then we had to disasemble it again in order to do the ECU fooling... lol


then BAM, we put everything together and prepping everything for the first drive! :d


now that everything was done, tranny fluid topped off, and coolant replenished... pic of starting milage with the 6spd MT.


well... yes, the pedals are now dirty... :D
you know what it means right?? i was driving! :cool:


and well.. then it was the first road trip! :D so i took a random pic


and las pic, not related... but this was waiting at my door for me to arrive! :D

stage 3 ferrea valvetrain. :cool:

well, to conclude this whole swap topic,
i have to say thanks to the following people and companies:
-European Auto tuning for the install, and well... for not killing me! lol. i know i'm the most PITA customer. lol
-Underground Parts for the pedals, and the clutchline. without him, i would have never had the parts to finish the swap.
-Paul@eastcoast for the tranny, axles and more.
But again, and most of all, special thanks to Vidal Torres (E.A tuning owner/mechanic/ friend, etc.) for everything, for the help, for teaching me, for answering EVERY single question, and more. You rule! :D
Thanks to Ron, Vidal's second hand, and a very helpful man! he too had to suffer me for all this last week... lol. thanks bro.

and last, but not least, thanks to jonathan for re-teaching me how to let go of the clutch! :D

So, if you have any questions, feel free to ask.
if you have any VERY technical questions, contact E.A tuning directly.
and well... after all, they are the ones to do the very first swap from auto to 6spd MT. :D


for moar ifo, fund me on vortex, fb or on my personal thread...
 
#25 ·
did you get the wiring done yet??? Sorry, been away.
 
#26 ·
just did it yesterday.

we did a starter relay fuse.
my ecu didnt want to become a manual...

right now the car is perfectly driveable... but there are some "issues"

-no reverse light
-no traction control
-MIL (check engine) it says that the TCM isnt found.
-no clutch position sensor. so i have to start the car on neutral or i HAVE to make sure to have the clutch in if i want to start in 1st

other than that, it drives perecttly
 
#27 ·
yea go ahead and chip tune it for a manual and it will get rid of the MIL and you will have traction control back.

I will be heading up to AP tuning in PA here HOPEFULLY later this week or early next week.
 
#30 ·



lol, i just have been driving for 6 days... and i;m a very slow shifter. lol... as of right now.

anyways, uitronic stage 2 has a rev limiter set at 6500 and thats 60mph in second!!!
 
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