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Thread: Dash Dilema - Finish Installation of the Cabbie Dash in my Mk1 GTI?

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    Dash Dilema - Finish Installation of the Cabbie Dash in my Mk1 GTI?

    Hey Folks,

    Need a sense check on the project on which I am about to embark...

    My 84 GTI had a cabbie dash installed. The speedo, tach, fuel gauge and signal indicators work but the other switches are not connected (except the headlights and flasher) - and there are no dash lights/ the dimmer wheel is not connected at all) A number of wires on the flat plug instrument cluster connector are hanging loose - not sure what they do. I grabbed most if not all the pigtails off the cabbie instruments and switches in the junk yard. And the knee bar was missing although I have one from a cabbie from the junk hard (has no tray under the glove compartment and a center mounted ash tray if that helps) It does look like it will fit the existing brackets from the original? Dash pad is in OK shape but mounting points for the screws holding in the instrument cluster are pretty much shot. May still be a good cabbie dash left in my bone yard....

    Then the heater box was completely removed. I found one from the same cabbie I got the knee bar. I need to rehab it, get a new fan, but it was all there including air conditioning and air vent tubes. It is still connected to the heater control (copper tube on the heater control may have been bent?!) And I grabbed the pigtails

    Oh, and then they moved the gauges up to where the radio is supposed to be so I need the center console to relocate those - and I assume that there is a specific one for a cabbie.

    So the question... Does it make sense to swap in all this stuff in (can I really figure out how to connect all of this???) or am I better trying to beg and plead with the VW bone yard to let me trade all these cabbie parts for the '83-84 dash parts and convert it back (if its not going to set me back a small fortune).

    Its cold here in Chi town - so I have some time to dismantle and get it all sorted and back together (God willing) before spring. The question is...which way to go.

    Would greatly appreciate any sage advice! Thanks, E

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    Re: Dash Dilema - Finish Installation of the Cabbie Dash in my Mk1 GTI?

    The Cabbies, were German built. The cabbies used a different fuse panel, than the Westy built.
    Making your Cabby cluster work isn't a daunting task, it is a puzzle that can be solved as quite a few folks have merged them.

    The a/c heater box and controls are about the same, and installing then isn't that hard, I know that my westy built diesel used the same box that my current Cabbies used but there are differences. The Thermoswitch on the Rabbits was next to the heater box passenger side. They had a shorter run of wires and sensing tube. The Cabbies is mounted on the heater controls and operate with a longer thermo expansion tube that is inserted on the passenger side of the box. It breaks easily and can be wound around things The nice thing is that the sensing tube is inserted in a brass tube that is usually affixed to the expansion core for the a/c so spraying the tube with PB-Blaster and allowing it to work, the tube can be pulled out of the box, slow steady pull on the tube with fingers only, as you may crush or kink it with pliers. When I take my Controls out I remove the screw that holds the thermoswitch to the controls. A short Stubby magnetic screw driver works well, and the lever comes off, and can fall so I take it off and stash it. You can "pop" the control slider off the arm to facilitate easier removal.

    There were differences in the Floor consoles, that the non-a/c units had a shallower heater box over an a/c one. Getting the Specific console for the floor is going to be a "Cabriolet" style. The Radio is mounted above the heater controls, and if you have to do any work on the dash, it is best to take the control mounting screws loose to allow the controls to float. You don't break the mounting tabs this way.

    On the edge of the Cabby Cluster, take off the fingered plastic shroud and carefully undo the mylar off the tongue you will see that the pins are labeled on the back side as to what they do.


    On the later cluster connectors there are 2 finger catches, and you can undo those to remove pins, and move them to where they need to be.
    So you get the correct signals that the cluster requires.

    Yes you can finger it out. You will need two things.
    The year of Cabbie that you removed the cluster from, and the Bentley or Haynes manual pages for that year of car so you can see the pin diagrams, But as I said on the back side of the mylar in "German" the pins are labeled.

    Then Download the following diagrams so you ca see how the Westies are.
    http://chris.chemidl.in/vw-wiring-di...982-1983-1984/

    With the above you can rewire to your hearts content. I have quite a few "Cabbie Content" and well basic mk1 how to's in the Older Rabbit Section.
    I have a few Dash gimmes, and a few a/c ones.

    The Best trick I can give you is to place one piece of electrical tape on the Pad side of the Tongue for the Mylar connector, as that tightens up the connector pins.


    Also a vast improvement was made to the Cabriolets a/c fresh air inlet. They placed a Screen over it that I didn't have on my Rabbit.
    It prevents debris from entering the heater and plugging up the drain line.
    Adding a Hood Vent Debris Guard is also a good thing to reduce debris from plugging up the rain drains.

    The DIY section in the older Rabbit forum.
    http://volkswagenownersclub.com/vw/f...bbit-Mods-DIYs
    What do Divorces, Great Coffee and Cars all have in common?
    They all Start with good GROUNDS.
    Replace all of them that you can, 99 percent of flakiness will disappear.


    92, 93 Cabriolet.... 89, and 90 are Deceased.


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    Re: Dash Dilema - Finish Installation of the Cabbie Dash in my Mk1 GTI?

    Many Thanks Brian!

    The frankensteining of the dash happened before I purchased it so year of the cabbie instrument cluster is unknown, but at least I can look at the pins it the way you showed above.

    Lucky I did a complete disassembly of the instrument cluster to fix a slipping gear on the trip odometer - so talking apart again will be a relative walk in the park!

    OK - will take the plunge - thanks for the encouragement! E.

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    Re: Dash Dilema - Finish Installation of the Cabbie Dash in my Mk1 GTI?

    Hey Folks,
    Any idea on the year of this instrument panel? Saw something online that indicated this might be from an 82? (so I can run down a wiring diagram)

    Briano - unfortunately the language on the mylar tab appears to be in a language other than English! Any ideas?

    Thanks All!

    Best Regards,

    Eric

    photo 1.JPGphoto 2.JPGphoto 3.JPG
    Attached Images

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    Re: Dash Dilema - Finish Installation of the Cabbie Dash in my Mk1 GTI?

    Quote Originally Posted by BluGTI View Post
    Hey Folks,
    Any idea on the year of this instrument panel? Saw something online that indicated this might be from an 82? (so I can run down a wiring diagram)

    Briano - unfortunately the language on the mylar tab appears to be in a language other than English! Any ideas?

    Thanks All!

    Best Regards,

    Eric

    Attachment 33482Attachment 33490Attachment 33498
    Opps, mea culpa mea culpa mea culpa.....
    Well I forgot to add that the labels are in German, so you have to babelfish or translate all the words. https://www.babelfish.com/

    It is a VDO movement, that is what is labeled on the front face of the Speedo. VDO was the standard gauge set on the 84.5 maybe earlier to 89 Cabriolets.
    The solid state component on the upper right of the rear is your 10V stabilizer that is avail at AutohousAZ for 45 bucks, or Mouser.com FA7810-ate for less than a dollar, so order a few as the shipping is the same for one or 10.
    On the back of the speedo housing are 2 pins on a block of brown bakelite. This is the speed sensor for Cruise control, and in the 90's it was also used as a speed sensor for the radio.

    As you are looking at the rear the Pin number 2 is Ground Brown, and the pins go (from the rear) 1 on left to 14 on the right, 14 being 12V in.

    From babelfish:
    Original english

    oil, water, tach
    Translation German

    Öl, Wasser, tach

    Just type in the pin names and it will do the work for you.

    If you know the Pin numbers and cross to a old cluster on the bentley, or haynes, I actually think that Haynes has the better copies of the original schematics.

    later 87-89 cabby cluster:




    Early 85-86 cluster cabby.


    The West Built Rabbits/GTI's have a different fuse panel. so you can find the wiring diagrams for them here,
    just down load them, and they are yours forever and ever.........

    in 84.5 VW changed from Rabbits to Golfs,, the main way to tell is that they moved away from a Full Sized spare tire, to a Space Saver Donut.
    The Cabriolet went from a 10 Gallon Fuel Tank to a 13 Gallon tank, and the space saver tire......


    Hope it helps.
    Last edited by briano1234; 02-15-2017 at 08:11 AM.
    What do Divorces, Great Coffee and Cars all have in common?
    They all Start with good GROUNDS.
    Replace all of them that you can, 99 percent of flakiness will disappear.


    92, 93 Cabriolet.... 89, and 90 are Deceased.


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    Re: Dash Dilema - Finish Installation of the Cabbie Dash in my Mk1 GTI?

    Hey Brian & All,

    Thanks much this is helpful. My car is an 84 GTI with no cruise and no 90's radio connection for the little bakelite box. So that is probably something that is not going to be connected! If the 10V stabilizer is bad what problems would I be seeing? Before I dismantled frankenbunny's dash the speedo, tach, gas and temp gauges seemed to work fine.

    So I decided to take baby steps tackling the light switch first. Only enough wires were connected (using the wrong plug) to get the lights to come on.

    The wiring diagrams on the link are dynamite, especially the ones for the 84 westy GTI. However the Cabby diagram in comparison is a tough nut to crack! This is largely because the westy diagram tells where each wire goes - but you have to try to follow the diagram to where the wires go for the Cabby (and the places they go do not seem to have the same names/descriptions!) So far I have been able to match about 4 of the 8/9 wires between my 84 GTI and the '85-ish light switch/plug/pig tail.

    I've got the diagrams you provided the link for and the Bentley manual - which unfortunately just look like the diagrams I downloaded. Keeping your Rabbit Alive seems of no use. I have an online subscription to the Haynes manual but no diagrams of this there (maybe I should have bought the actual book?!). Any idea of the Haynes manual has diagrams are any more clear?

    I'm attaching an image of the westy headlight switch diagram (left) and the Cabby diagram (right) to show you what I mean. Maybe I am just too darn literal in the way I read what they connect too?

    Any thoughts or direction would be appreciated. Or I guess I could do it by trial and error and burn my garage and bunny to the ground!

    Thanks Much, E.


    Manual Mayhem.JPG

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    Re: Dash Dilema - Finish Installation of the Cabbie Dash in my Mk1 GTI?

    ok, Chris's westy rabbits pages are more in tune with the Chiltons manual rather than the Haynes or the Bentley.
    The Haynes and the Bentley are the similar layout from the 81 Rabbit I drove to the 93 Cabriolet.

    Once you under stand them, it isn't that bad, but then I have been reading diagrams /schematics for over 46 years.

    At the top of the page on the Haynes / Bentley are the Power or 12V lines and relays.
    Each of the power lines is a circuit run as in 30 (unswitched power) 15 switched, X is the load reduction circuit for cutting off accessories when starting the car.

    The Bottom of the page are the Grounds and wiring connectons or Current Track.
    If you look at the reference or index for the schematics lets say on the index you see Radiator Cooling fan with a track of 132. So looking at the bottoms of the page
    for number 132,,,,, and then look up it is the ta-da radiator fan. If there are numbered boxes those point to addition circuit runs.
    easy cheesy.

    Now looking at the "Chris's" pages they are a little better but can be confusing as if you look at the Head Light Switch you see a box with wires going out of it.
    The Bentley/Haynes shows the interior bit of the switch.

    Where the issue is is that the original Westy's used a solid state pull type of switch, where as the Cabriolets after about 83 used a Rocker switch.
    The Numbers that I see on Chris's look to be the pull type of switch.... And even in the early Bentley/haynes they had a box with a Transistor on it so you would know it was controlled by a solid state component.

    The later Cabriolets, are hard connections.


    Ok Just for you






    Comparing Hayes/Bentley on left to Chris's on right.....
    Last edited by briano1234; 02-16-2017 at 08:07 PM.
    What do Divorces, Great Coffee and Cars all have in common?
    They all Start with good GROUNDS.
    Replace all of them that you can, 99 percent of flakiness will disappear.


    92, 93 Cabriolet.... 89, and 90 are Deceased.


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    Re: Dash Dilema - Finish Installation of the Cabbie Dash in my Mk1 GTI?

    Hey Brian,

    Hugely helpful and I am starting to catch on as I had 5 of them "guessed" correctly!

    So I Have -
    - Black/Yellow X - 12 Gauge bingo - and there is also a ~20 gauge yellow/black wire coming from same terminal in the plug with nowhere to go?
    - White/Black 3 - bingo
    - Gray to Blue (5)(6) Gray - there are 2 light gray wires and one dark gray wire in the harness and they have been all combined using a small terminal block with a single wire going into the old plug. Assuming I should just leave those together?
    - Gray/Red (4) - bingo
    - Gray/Blue - bingo

    I have two left over wires in the GTI harness...
    1.) Brown - must be the 31V ground? - Has a female spade connector on it. but where does that go to?
    2.) Brown/White - the downloaded wiring diagram says "ground for courtesy light" (diagram below) - so where the heck would I run that too?

    I also have two left over wires in the plug for the switch. They appear to go to the light bulb in the plug. Not something the GTI had on its switch but it would be nice to have since I am using the Cabbie switch. Here is my guess of maybe how to make that work...
    1.) Black/Yellow - ~20 gauge (my SWAG - connect it to Gray/Blue Power to Instrument lights??)
    2.) Brown - ~20 gauge (my SWAG - connect it to the ground/a ground wire/screw?)
    Does this make sense - or do I leave well enough alone and skip this to avoid circuits being over taxed?

    Thanks Again - just about there and this should help a lot in the next steps!

    Best Regards, Eric

    P.S. Are Chris's westy rabbits here in Volkswagenownersclub?

    photo(3).JPG

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    Re: Dash Dilema - Finish Installation of the Cabbie Dash in my Mk1 GTI?

    Ok a little History.

    The Westmoreland built Rabbits (called Golf in Europe) had differences in the builds.
    The european built folks used a fuse box similar to the Cabriolets (black)
    The Westy built GTI and Rabbits used a Gray one similar to all the US made cars. I think this was so the
    Owner would feel comfortable with changing a fuse as he didn’t have to look anything up. Or it was a NTSB, NTHA or DOT thing.
    I never had a good explanation why the differences.

    3 Gimmies

    1.) Where the Diesels were different, was the the Diesel Engines/Transmissions were all assembled in Germany and Shipped to the US
    as Complete Items (Including the a/c compressors (sanden rotary)).

    When the buyer wanted a/c equipped car i.e. Gassers, and they didn’t have any in stock. The Factory or Dealer installed the “York” compressor (square on top of the Alternator) German Equipped was round below the alternator.

    2.) Motorola vs Bosch Alternators US built used a Motorola built alternator that had the 3 wire plug, whereas the Europeans used the Bosch alternator that had 2 single wires (RED for power) (Blue for the exciter).

    3.) Head light switch on the Westy Rabbits had a pull switch for the Lights with a twist of the knob for dimmer courtesy light to more
    “Americanise” them. The internals of the switch had a solid state IC that routed the different wires going in to the different items.
    I can remember when my switch went out no headlights/tail lights the dealer wanted big bucks for it, so I took it out and looked up the IC number on it, Crossed it over in my IC catalog, and wired it so the Head lights/Tails would come on with the switch in or out, but only with the Key on. (Original Daytime running lights).

    Back to our thread.


    - Black/Yellow X - 12 Gauge bingo - and there is also a ~20 gauge yellow/black wire coming from same terminal in the plug with nowhere to go?

    Crap Forgot that Light in the switch.

    The head light has a bulb in it, the bulb isn’t in the switch schematics so I forgot, sorry.
    The Headlight switch lamp is off the Switched circuit, that means that is it on by the insertion of the key into the switch.
    So there is a smaller gauge 20 sounds right Black/Yellow wire to one side of the bulb and Ground or Brown to the other.

    I would take the 20gauge black/yellow and the 20 gauge brown to the headlight switch light (it is on with key in so you see it in the dark).


    - White/Black 3 - bingo

    - Gray to Blue (5)(6) Gray - there are 2 light gray wires and one dark gray wire in the harness and they have been all combined using a small terminal block with a single wire going into the old plug. Assuming I should just leave those together?

    Yes

    - Gray/Red (4) - bingo
    - Gray/Blue - bingo


    I have two left over wires in the GTI harness...
    1.) Brown - must be the 31V ground? - Has a female spade connector on it. but where does that go to?
    2.) Brown/White - the downloaded wiring diagram says "ground for courtesy light" (diagram below) - so where the heck would I run that too?


    The Courtesy lamp in the Cabby uses Separate power and ground. There was a separate 3 position switch and ground on the lamp assembly that tied in to the door contacts for ground. The Courtesy lamp had the bulb tied to 12V full time. Then by turning the switch you could short it to a ground, or by placing it in the middle to the door switches, and the 3rd position was full off.

    The Courtesy lap on the Cabriolet was in the middle of the “A” pillar between the sun visors.
    The colors on the Cabriolet are Brown/white (from door switches) Brown (straight to ground) and RED from the fuse for the Cigarette lighter/Radio which was straight to the battery.

    Off of pin 1 on the GTI is Brown/white this is the ground for the Courtesy Lamp which isn’t on the Cabriolet switch but you should tie it to 31V ground.


    I also have two left over wires in the plug for the switch. They appear to go to the light bulb in the plug. Not something the GTI had on its switch but it would be nice to have since I am using the Cabbie switch. Here is my guess of maybe how to make that work...
    1.) Black/Yellow - ~20 gauge (my SWAG - connect it to Gray/Blue Power to Instrument lights??)
    2.) Brown - ~20 gauge (my SWAG - connect it to the ground/a ground wire/screw?)
    Does this make sense - or do I leave well enough alone and skip this to avoid circuits being over taxed?


    1.) Answered the Black/Yellow 20gauge goes to the Bulb in the Light Switch.
    2.) Answered that you tie the Brown 20gauge to the other side of the Bulb as well.
    Solid Brown is always ground. (dirt is brown?)

    If you ever wondered what the inside of the Fuse box looks like
    1989 Cabriolet.
    Last edited by briano1234; 02-17-2017 at 07:31 AM.
    What do Divorces, Great Coffee and Cars all have in common?
    They all Start with good GROUNDS.
    Replace all of them that you can, 99 percent of flakiness will disappear.


    92, 93 Cabriolet.... 89, and 90 are Deceased.


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    Re: Dash Dilema - Finish Installation of the Cabbie Dash in my Mk1 GTI?

    Ok after thoughts.......

    To take the current load and to improve visibility on your ride, you really should relay the head lights, it is a cheap fix and is one of the best safety things you can do to your car besides not driving it.

    All of my mk1 cabriolet how do I do that's (based on my 90-93 Cabriolet, but some are applicable to all MK1's


    Relaying your Headlights. Now granted this is for the Quad Light Grille on a Cabby, but can be converted to a Single Bulb Westy by leaving off the inner high beam pigtail blue).

    Also on the Earlier Cabriolets, the gray/blue wire going to the dash lights wasn't fused, so putting in a in-line fuse wouldn't be a bad thing 5-10amp at least.

    Also the black/yellow and brown 20 gauge wire connectors for the bulb weren't insulated, and could short out to ground, so adding a piece of "Heat Shrink" tube to those works well, and don't forget the 2 bare wires on the Hazard Switch as they are commonly shorted out on dash repairs.

    Last Evil Thought.

    I kept getting calls from my Daughters when they drove the Cabbies that they forgot to turn the headlights off (default is that the parking lights remain on)
    and draining the battery so I would have to go Jump them. Even thought I had cables in each of my cars.

    I cut the wire to the marker lights and console lights and tied to the black/yellow (heavy gauge) wire so that when the key is out the markers and console lights go out, the draw back is that when you are driving if the switch is on so are all the marker/headlights/console lights, but then I never had to "Jump" the car as in EFI you can't "pop" the clutch.

    Okay really last thoughtfor this post
    For the time being, I forgot the purpose of the 10V stabilizer.

    The 10V stabilizer is used to power the fuel/water gauge.

    They take 12V in from the battery Pin 14 (black), and put it on to one leg of the FA7810-ate stabilizer. The Middle leg and back are at ground from pin 2 on the connector (brown) it is used so that the Fuel gauge and the Water gauge have a stabilized voltage to sense with.

    The fuel/water gauges are basically a nicachrome wire wrapped on a Bi-metallic spring, that as the wire increases or decreases resistance from the sending units (float on gas) and (temp sensors on water) they heat up at a design rate and move the needle appropriately. As they are heating units, they tend to
    be stabile at movement of the car down the road, when the tank is less than full the needle stays and is slow to move as the wire wrapped spring heats and cools slowly.

    Fuel gauge.


    Water gauge.


    If both gauges go out it is usually the 10V stabilizer or the 2 inputs to it, that is 12V and Ground.
    I have a how do I back feed in my how-tos if that happens. If you do the tests outlined in the Bentley for the 10V stabilizer then
    you can diagnose if it is bad or good, and if the voltage are there.



    I have noticed that if my stabilzer is flaky, my tach would be off as well.

    The 10V stabilizer is avail at GAP and AutohausAZ for between 29-45 dollars.
    The part number for it is 171919803
    ecs 33 bucks https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ach/171919803/
    Autohaus 43 bucks http://www.autohausaz.com/pn/171919803
    Dealer 29 bucks http://www.jimellisvwparts.com/produ...171919803.html
    Ebay uk 47pounds http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-80-Ca...-/191995479100
    partsplace 50 bucks http://www.partsplaceinc.com/site-se...arch=171919803

    Mouser.com FA7810-A lm7810-ct .70Cents.... yep what a mark up elsewheres.
    http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...URTRfWwwZu0%3d
    So you order 10, and with shipping I think it is less than 15 bucks.

    If one Gauge or the other is flakey, you can test it in the car, see the testing my flaky water gauge, and or More than I ever wanted to know about fuel senders........
    Last edited by briano1234; 02-17-2017 at 09:52 AM.
    What do Divorces, Great Coffee and Cars all have in common?
    They all Start with good GROUNDS.
    Replace all of them that you can, 99 percent of flakiness will disappear.


    92, 93 Cabriolet.... 89, and 90 are Deceased.


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    Re: Dash Dilema - Finish Installation of the Cabbie Dash in my Mk1 GTI?

    Damn Briano,

    You have most certainly forgotten more than I have learned so far!

    Hoping to finish the other switches, console gauges and the instrument cluster wiring this weekend so things are cleaned up in order for me to take on the mother of all under dash projects - reinstalling the heater/AC box - that the former owner took out to lighten the car for autocross. I need as few random wires under the dash as possible before I start that!

    OK for posterity and others following the dash swap path I am attaching the wiring diagram as I understand it. If you could confirm that would be much appreciated.

    Relaying the headlites on on my to-do list - but got to get all this dash wiring pulled back together. Those stock headlights are so dim I always have them on bright and no one even flashes me!

    With all that brass in the Cabbie fuse box I am surprised that they are not being grabbed for recycling these days!

    Many thanks once again, I think I am on a roll!

    Best Regards,

    EricName:  photo(5).JPG
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  13. #12
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    Re: Dash Dilema - Finish Installation of the Cabbie Dash in my Mk1 GTI?

    Well if I could blow it up then I could read it. I tried to stand my laptop on the side and I still think it is too small for me.
    What do Divorces, Great Coffee and Cars all have in common?
    They all Start with good GROUNDS.
    Replace all of them that you can, 99 percent of flakiness will disappear.


    92, 93 Cabriolet.... 89, and 90 are Deceased.


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    Re: Dash Dilema - Finish Installation of the Cabbie Dash in my Mk1 GTI?

    Darn pics from my phone won't come through any bigger! Hitting the site limit...E

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    Re: Dash Dilema - Finish Installation of the Cabbie Dash in my Mk1 GTI?

    Hey Brian,

    Tried everything I could think of to send a jpg, pdf, png, prn, excel, etc.... everything his the size limiter. So converted excel to text and including it below.

    Main question is - while there is a brown wire coming out of the GTI harness - I don't see that it connects to anything on the cabbie switch - other than to the spare wire (brown/white) for the switch bulb. Am I missing something?

    Thanks again, E.

    Cabriolet Westy GTI
    Headlight Headlight
    Switch Harness

    x Black/Yellow big - from load reduction relay - Black/Yellow x

    1 White/Black - Power to Headlight Low/High - White/Black 3

    58 Gray/Green - Power front/rear parking/tail lights - Gray to Blue (5)(6) Gray (Note: Actually 2 light gray, 1 dark gray)"

    30 Red - Power from Battery - Gray/Red (4)

    58b Gray/Blue - "Power to console lights, radio, facia, instruments, cigarette lighter, defrost, hazard switch" - Gray/Blue (2)

    ????? No ground connection to switch? - GROUND - BROWN (31V)

    x Black/Yellow small - Extra wire to below

    Switch Bulb - Black/Yellow 20 to above

    Switch Bulb - Brown/White - to Brown (31V) above

  16. #15
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    Re: Dash Dilema - Finish Installation of the Cabbie Dash in my Mk1 GTI?

    31v isn't used on the headlight switch.

    On the older rabbits with the pull switch they needed a unswitched ground for the solid state device in the switch.
    This isn't needed on the Cabriolet switch. So you could just tie it to the Bulb, or tape it off.

    Fo photos, you need to use a photo hosting site, ie: snapfish, photobucket... You upload the photos there, then copy the Link that says IMG.
    What do Divorces, Great Coffee and Cars all have in common?
    They all Start with good GROUNDS.
    Replace all of them that you can, 99 percent of flakiness will disappear.


    92, 93 Cabriolet.... 89, and 90 are Deceased.


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    Re: Dash Dilema - Finish Installation of the Cabbie Dash in my Mk1 GTI?

    Thanks again Brian,
    I start soldering tomorrow! E.

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    Re: Dash Dilema - Finish Installation of the Cabbie Dash in my Mk1 GTI?

    Hey All,

    So finished my look at how Dr. Frankenstein wired the instrument panel, and he actually didn't do too badly (much better than the light switch).
    Just a couple anomalies...and questions.

    - For Cabbie connector (6) Red wire to the clock - goes to Black/Green (this is a splice into the Black/Gray wire which is not in the group of wires going to the instrument cluster) instead of to the (3) Red/Gray that is in the wiring diagram. Looks like they just needed a power source. Seems OK? (unless I can find the Red/Gray - but am not seeing it in the wire bundle)

    - Cabbie connector (9) Black/Blue which appears to be for the "low oil pressure 1.8 bar" has no corresponding wire in the GTI harness but Cabbie connector (11) Yellow "3 bar low oil pressure warning" is connected to (16) Blue/Black "oil pressure warning" Any reason that this should not stand?

    - Cabbie connector (10) Green/Blue (which says "Not Used" in the cabbie wiring diagram) is connected to Dark Gray ( on the GTI harness which is apparently for "dimmer control". Not sure why Dr. Frankenstein connected these two - but concerned as there were no dash lights before I tore this all down - but then again it could have been the messed up headlight switch that caused that problem. (above I wired the "dark gray" wire together with the other gray wires on the headlight switch which appeared to be for the parking lights, etc.) Not sure if this is an issue?

    Would appreciate any input!

    Best Regards, E.

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    Super Moderator briano1234 has a reputation beyond reputebriano1234 has a reputation beyond reputebriano1234 has a reputation beyond reputebriano1234 has a reputation beyond reputebriano1234 has a reputation beyond reputebriano1234 has a reputation beyond reputebriano1234 has a reputation beyond reputebriano1234 has a reputation beyond reputebriano1234 has a reputation beyond reputebriano1234 has a reputation beyond reputebriano1234 has a reputation beyond repute briano1234's Avatar
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    Re: Dash Dilema - Finish Installation of the Cabbie Dash in my Mk1 GTI?

    I did this a couple of days ago, and didn't think about it much.....




    Hope it helps. "The Dimmer Control" was for the UP shift light. It wasn't for the Dash lights at all.
    If you have a later Cluster from a Cabriolet then the UP shift wasn't used.
    On the EARLY Cabbies 83-84.5 it was on the Dash, on the Later 85-86 the dimmer wasn't installed but the upshift light was.
    On the 87-89 it wasn't used at all.

    So I wouldn't connect that "dimmer in at all as that should be 12V Switched, and Possible negate your Dash Light Dimmers, and or Back Feed the switch The probably cause would be no control over the dash lights and it would drive you buggy.

    If you notice that the Parking Brake / Seat Belt was moved off the Dash and on to a separate unit.
    If you notice that I say t/6 on the Cabriolet that is the connector that is next to the Speedometer.
    What do Divorces, Great Coffee and Cars all have in common?
    They all Start with good GROUNDS.
    Replace all of them that you can, 99 percent of flakiness will disappear.


    92, 93 Cabriolet.... 89, and 90 are Deceased.


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    Re: Dash Dilema - Finish Installation of the Cabbie Dash in my Mk1 GTI?

    Thanks a Ton Brian,

    Now I cannot wait to get out of work and back home tonite to try to wrap this up! I do not see that "up arrow" with the light in the middle on my cluster (above) so I'm guessing it was pre-upshift?

    I am moving my gauges out of the radio hole in the dash (and the radio out of the heater vent hole) and want to get a console for the gauges.

    So quick question...does the Cabbie with AC use the "short" console I see referenced on eBay? I see one that has kind of 'semi circular' sides that extend just slightly beyond the console with a tab at each top corner that would appear to screw to the dash/knee bar. The other kind has long 'rectangular' extensions on the bottom sides of the back of the console that extend quite a way beyond the back of the console and has what looks like a metal bar between the two under dash extensions.

    I have the knee bar that has the "upkick" in the center with the lighter and ash tray in it - and no window switches (which I think I saw in one of your posts?). And I am putting back in the heater box with AC. So I am guessing I need the "short" console, correct? (and have I accurately identified what the "short console" is?!).

    Time to wrap up the instrument cluster and start locating the heater/air wires, lighter wires, sorting the frankensteined gauge wires and figuring out what purpose the other random wires that are left serve! I'm guessing that unless I find a use for each of the unused wires that I need to trace their bundle (if it still exists) back to the fuse box to see what it is supposed to control?

    Thanks Much Brian, E

  21. #20
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    Re: Dash Dilema - Finish Installation of the Cabbie Dash in my Mk1 GTI?


    Now I cannot wait to get out of work and back home tonite to try to wrap this up! I do not see that "up arrow" with the light in the middle on my cluster (above) so I'm guessing it was pre-upshift?


    Post I would think as that is later years. The upshift was in use up to 86-87..

    I am moving my gauges out of the radio hole in the dash (and the radio out of the heater vent hole) and want to get a console for the gauges.

    So quick question...does the Cabbie with AC use the "short" console I see referenced on eBay? I see one that has kind of 'semi circular' sides that extend just slightly beyond the console with a tab at each top corner that would appear to screw to the dash/knee bar. The other kind has long 'rectangular' extensions on the bottom sides of the back of the console that extend quite a way beyond the back of the console and has what looks like a metal bar between the two under dash extensions.

    I have the knee bar that has the "upkick" in the center with the lighter and ash tray in it - and no window switches (which I think I saw in one of your posts?). And I am putting back in the heater box with AC. So I am guessing I need the "short" console, correct? (and have I accurately identified what the "short console" is?!).

    I'm guessing that unless I find a use for each of the unused wires that I need to trace their bundle (if it still exists) back to the fuse box to see what it is supposed to control?

    Best is to look at the wiring diagrams for that colored wire.

    Yes the "short" one is for A/C equipped cars, alot of the Cabriolets were a/c equipped. The Non-a/c is a smaller box for the heater core.
    The ones on my photos is correct albeit that I have Automatics, the console is the same for either manual or automatic.
    Last edited by briano1234; 02-22-2017 at 06:59 PM.
    What do Divorces, Great Coffee and Cars all have in common?
    They all Start with good GROUNDS.
    Replace all of them that you can, 99 percent of flakiness will disappear.


    92, 93 Cabriolet.... 89, and 90 are Deceased.


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