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5K views 20 replies 3 participants last post by  CdnCabrio 
#1 ·
I have picked up an 1989 5spd transmission for my 1985 5spd which has likely failed. From what I understand it should be a direct swap, although, I heard the 89 transmission does not have the upshift light.. no big deal for me! If anyone knows of any other differences pls let me know.

My last transmission swaps were in 2004 when I did a Jeep Comanche 5 spd and a Sunfire automatic. Needless to say there will be dust to brush off since it's been along time. Curious if there's a how to on doing it. Things I should look for ie clutch inspection (new clutch 5000 miles ago), special tools, recommendations on doing the job, parts I should replace while I'm in there. I'll be doing this on my back in the driveway with ramps/jack.

To note. When troubleshooting my bad transmission the issue was the car would not go into reverse. After several adjustments I could hear a grinding when letting off the clutch because it would never fully go into the reverse gear.. not even by hand. Not sure if there is also a clutch issue or if the transmission idler gear (which is assumed to have failed) was simply jammed and causing this from not being in gear all the way.
 
#2 ·
The only special tools that you need are the 8mm Triple Square socket to remove the axles from the differential.
The "UP Shift" light is Vacuum controlled so that isn't an issue at all. The changes may be in the Reverse light switch.

If your clutch is good then you may be all set, the only thing I would do to the "new to you" is possibly remove the green cap and replace the finger and thrust bearing under that cap as a might as well be safe than sorry kind of thing.

I have a how do I do that on a Automatic and it is about the same, I have to warn you that the Photobucket site is down, so all my how to's are devoid of pictures.

It isn't that hard and fist time should be about 4-5 hours. be mindful of the power steering hoses.

An engine lift similar to the one at harbor freight that goes between the fenders is a godsend as you can control the engine and the tranny from one point.
http://www.harborfreight.com/automo...000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html

I made my own years ago, but this will work or give you an idea of what to make.
 
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#3 ·
Sounds great thanks for the info. it doesn't seem like a difficult job except for finding the green cap. BrokeVW says to replace the cap after removing but I can't seem to find a replacement.


With cooler weather around the corner the car likely won't see the road this year. I've decided to wait until spring before tackling this job/increase my fun car budget for misc parts and repairs.
 
#6 ·
I am gathering parts to do this swap. I am ordering the following: Green plate, Finger, TOB and oil pan gasket. My oil pan gasket looks like it was replaced somewhat recently but not installed correctly and is leaking quite badly. Perhaps the reason for my oil light?

However, I've seen more parts online. Will I require any of these gaskets while I have everything apart?

Rear Main Seal flanges and gaskets: https://order.germanparts.ca/produc...14&subapplication=311&search_type=APPLICATION
Oil filter bracket gasket: https://order.germanparts.ca/produc...14&subapplication=311&search_type=APPLICATION
Oil Seal: https://order.germanparts.ca/produc...=8&subapplication=254&search_type=APPLICATION
Shift Rod Seals: https://order.germanparts.ca/produc...=8&subapplication=254&search_type=APPLICATION
 
#7 ·
The oil Pan's rear two bolts that go between the Engine and the Bellhousing are a pain to get in or out and really easy to Strip going back in.
To start them you need to use a couple of wobble extensions and 1/4 drive, start by hand and no more than 87in/lbs torque.

For driving seals I usually use a PVC pipe connector. Works great and is cheap.
 
#9 ·
Thanks for the info Brian, I'll be careful on the pan. Will I require the rear main seal with bracket assembly or just the seal itself? What about the other seals I listed?


As for the clutch parts, I was told by the previous owner he had replaced it less than 5000 miles before the reverse gear died in the transmission. I will replace the TOB and finger since they are cheap and I don't know their condition. But I don't think it will need a clutch, it felt great driving before I took it off the road.
 
#10 ·
Thanks for the info Brian, I'll be careful on the pan. Will I require the rear main seal with bracket assembly or just the seal itself? What about the other seals I listed?


As for the clutch parts, I was told by the previous owner he had replaced it less than 5000 miles before the reverse gear died in the transmission. I will replace the TOB and finger since they are cheap and I don't know their condition. But I don't think it will need a clutch, it felt great driving before I took it off the road.
Well ifn't it was me I agree with TDI, Replace the clutch, why, because you won't have any reason to break it apart in the next 100K+ miles, and it is Cheaper to do it now......

Rear main seal and carrier depends on if the bolt holes for the pan are striped, the seal regardless as you are going to have it that far apart anyways. Better to do it now than in 2weeks after you get it all back together... :) Also the Clutch Rod seal if it is leaking on the clutch rod inside the Bell Housing. I would Drain all the oil using the 17mm Allen and Refill with new oil. If you find that when you are finished and the drive around the block your speedo is dead, you popped the Cable off the back of the speedo in the cluster, you can remove the Drivers side Vent (see my how to's) and worm your arm to the Back of the speed to re-attach.

The TOB and the Finger are a given, as the Finger can crack and slip on the shaft.... (it used to be a 5 dollar part) you will also need the Green Cap Cover.
If you are unsure of the clutch cable replace it as well. Watch for the Clutch tube on the pedal assembly getting sawed by the cable or breaking off from the pedal assembly.

I was told by the previous owner he had replaced it less than 5000 miles before the reverse gear died
Yeah right and I have a Bridge in Brooklyn that I will sell you for a few dollars........

The absolute Guru on Trannys is Brian (not me) of www.brokevw.com he has a wealth of info on them.

Oh, another gimme.... When you remove your axles off the Differential, be sure that you keep the ends Extended so the Balls can't drop out, and Tie a plastic Baggie over them to keep the CV grease from migrating to your hair and stuff.
I have found that if I Bungee cord the CV's up and out of my way on to the Strut springs on the Drivers side, and the Strut mount passenger side, it is way easier.

Also replace your rear transmission mount as you are going to have it off anyways as well.

If you read my DIY on transmissions R&R torque convertor seal, it is almost the same for dropping the clutch. You can make and Engine Support like mine, or get one from Harbor freight...... Mine is 2X12's with Square stock, or 2X4s with a 4X4 between. I mitered a slow and notch in the bottom to accommodate the fender lip and fender bolts.

Engine Support.


I have found that using a big toggle bolt on the back side of the engine allow me to lift or lower the engine back to ease alignments along with a Self Ratcheting Cargo strap to raise and lower the tranny make it easier.
 
#11 ·
Thanks for all of the info Brian. I have recently put it to use! We used a 4x4 with ratchet straps to support the motor, the ability to raise and lower was crucial.

The transmission is now out and I am getting the 89' cleaned and ready to go in. The two oil pan bolts are easily accessible now so I will change the gasket before installing transmission again. The clutch is all but new and in great condition, the previous owner told me a long list of items he has replaced and so far he hasn't been lying. Looks like he did the mounts when he did the clutch job as they are shiny and new. The input shaft seal on the 89' doesn't appear to be leaking and I've always been told to leave them if they aren't leaking. Thoughts on this?

I have an issue between the transmissions though. On my 85' there is a 4-pin reverse switch and on the 89' a 2-pin. Curious how this must be rewired to get the backup lights to work as the sensors are a different shape and in a different location. Also, what is the clutch rod seal? I see the clutch rod inside the input shaft but where is the seal.

Any other items I should be replacing or inspecting before I get it all back together.
 
#12 ·
I have an issue between the transmissions though. On my 85' there is a 4-pin reverse switch and on the 89' a 2-pin. Curious how this must be rewired to get the backup lights to work as the sensors are a different shape and in a different location. Also, what is the clutch rod seal? I see the clutch rod inside the input shaft but where is the seal.

Any other items I should be replacing or inspecting before I get it all back together.
The input seal is under the cap IIRC, but not to fear, everythign you need to know about re-wiring the reverse switch is here.
www.brokevw.com. Brian is a great guy, and the Guru of Guru's on the mk1 tranny.... You may beable to re-wire, or buy a replacement that is correct Brian will know. (p.s. Brian isn't me.).

I got over 300k on my 5spd and the input seal never leaked Just saying.
 
#13 ·
Thanks Brian!

I messaged Brian before he is a great guy. And thanks for triggering my memory he has a rewire write up on his site.

I cannot find the push rod seal outside of a kit which is $20. I ordered a new pushrod, TOB, finger and green cap. I won't be changing the input shaft seal as it isn't leaking. The pushrod seal also seems fine. How important is it that I replace it? 93K miles on this 89' transmission.

Curious to know if the previous owner changed it when he did the clutch I didn't check closely, I could reuse it if it's newer. He definitely didn't do the finger or TOB as they look quite worn.
 
#14 ·
I had 130K on my tranny a 4spd, swapped a 5spd into it (it too had about 135K). I sold the car 10 years later and over 330K, no leaks.
So take that for what it is worth. Just be sure to keep an eye on the fluid in the tranny and drips on the floor, the 5th gear is splash oiled, if the oil gets too low, then 5th usually burns up.

When I did my swap, I had just changed my clutch out about a year earlier on my 4spd, I reused it. Check the thickness of the plate and the condition of the flywheel and PP. The whole kit is @ 130 bucks for a SACHs, and if you question it, then replace it as that is one less worry later one down the road.
Wouldn't hurt to put a new clutch cable in it as well.

That way you should be over and done with it for another 130-200K. :) The only reason I had to change my clutch is that the clutch plate spring broke and got stuck under the fingers.
 
#15 ·
Okay great! I inspected the push rod seals on both transmissions. On the 85' it was missing and the 89' it was not leaking which is great. But ill be sure to keep an eye on the fluid level.

So my next question. When replacing the push rod is it safe to pull it out through the shaft end or cap end? I know there's another rod in the 5th housing which if you remove causes serious trouble. I'd hate to pull out the rod and cause harm. I will be removing the green cap and replacing the TOB bearing and finger too.
 
#16 ·
You normally don't have to replace the push rod. Leave it be, but if you take it out Either end is ok but the shaft has different ends one it... so mark which end is which.

The rod is straight through the middle of the tranny, clutch lever (finger) pushes the rod that pushes the PP...
 
#17 ·
I ended up replacing the push rod as the old one was flat on the end. Brian's site said it should not be flat. I was able to replace the finger, TOB etc. as well.. it was easier than I thought it would be.

The transmission is back in the car but now I need to tackle a few new issues. On removal, the pry bar slipped and broke the distributor cap, rotor and snapped one of the wires. I ordered a new cap and rotor and the rotor fits on but the cap does not. The clips that swing up do not come high enough to reach mounting points on the cap. It is a Beru cap and rotor and I ordered both from the local VW dealer. I tried pushing down on the rotor more and ensured it is seated in the correct direction. It still wont fit.

Also, I am replacing the black and white oil pressure sensors on the oil filter housing. I see a white sensor towards the back but in front there is a tiny sensor, looks different and it doesn't have any harness attached to it. I think it's the oil temp sensor but shouldn't there be a harness or lead attached to it? So I have to figure out where this black sensor is and why this temperature sensor isn't connected to anything.

Finally, the new transmission came with a speedo cable. We pulled the 85 cable out of the transmission and compared it to the 89. The 85 is missing the red gear, I am curious if it fell off into the transmission and caused reverse to be locked out? Anyway I need an opinion on this, 1. do I remove the red gear off the 89 and use it on the 85 cable so I don't have to fish a cable up to the cluster, 2. use the 89 cable, 3. buy a new cable to be safe that a new red gear wont break off inside the transmission. When the previous owner had the clutch done he said when he got the car back the speedo was no longer working.. a few months after that is when reverse stopped working. I bought the car shortly after.

Any help is great!
 
#18 ·
Yes the sender that is black as a single pin connection on it. I don't have my manuals handy to tell you with wire that you should be looking for.


It is possible that the gear got chewed up and bound up the syncro's gearing. Use the cable and gear off the 89. Make sure there is a clip on the end.
Use the 89 cable.
 
#19 ·
Thanks Brian,


I went through the wiring last night and I couldn't find it. Ended up ripping out a ton of wiring for aftermarket fog lights as someone at some point wired this like an ape. I now have a nice clean bay but still no trace of that oil temp sensor harness/wire. I looked behind my gauge and it's a brown/green wire connector. There is a harness in the engine bay but it only attaches to the white sensor on the housing and the distributor. I'm really at a loss here.


And thanks about the cable. I'm also trying to remove the dash bezel and gauge cluster to attach the new cable.
 
#20 ·
I would look in the sheath that the "white" gauge is coming out of. Chances are that the wire for the sender broke in the sheath. I can't find the color of the wire in either my Bentley or Haynes....go figure. On my Cabriolet, the wire for the White High pressure switch and the black low pressure switch are in the same vinyl sheathing. I had something similar as I had a broken wire, I ran a new wire from the ECU to the plug and that resolved the broken wire issue but I could never find the break. Going forward a couple months or year, and I had to move that harness. When I moved it and I could then find the fact that the wire was broken in the sheath and the wire tie on the sheath made it seem like the wire was good, as when I cut the wire tie the broken end fell out....it was broken off about 6 inches in to the sheath. So while it may appear that it isn't there it could be hiding internally to the sheath....

As these cars age, the old plastic insulation on the wires becomes hardened and brittle, and I have had other issues with wires subject to oil, grime and heat actually break into, The wire and plastic snapped apart so I have had to solder a new wire...
A gimmie..... I have had to replace the single pin end connectors on some of my sensors, and when I did I chose to use Insulated Female connectors. This is cool as it is insulated, but you have to cut away the insulation so the connector can slide over the pin.

Worst case is that you will have to run a new wire from the sensor to the oil pressure control....
 
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