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15K views 8 replies 4 participants last post by  hrabini 
#1 ·
Howdy, so I am experience a slightly hard down shift from 3rd to 2nd. my bunny is a 2007 2.5 with 6 speed auto and has 127K miles on it and still on the same trans fluid.. I want to change whats in the pan... as one should never change out 100% of the fluid. so my question is once I have removed the fluid and replaced the filter, where do I refill it ??? I can not find a darn plug or dip stick to fill from the top.
 
#2 ·
One should never change (flush) out all the fluid? Huh, I do it whenever possible.

Vw automatic transmission fluid should be changed every 30,000 miles - 60,000 miles, depending on
conditions.

https://youtu.be/2EHLsQGTiyU
Not fun... I don't use VCDS, and I just put in what I took out, plus a pint for when the filter saturates..

I have a DSG, and I try to get it ALL out. After it is done draining, I start it up and pump whatever
I can out of it... DSG fills the same way, but I have the top canister filter and gravity fill it up there.

There is a TSB for this issue that calls for a valve body replacement and software upgrade.
However people have stated that a simple fluid change resolves the hard downshift issue.
 
#3 ·
That is correct, if you have a high millage automatic transmission that has never had the fluid replaced, you should NEVER change out all the fluid.. it should be done in steps. change whats in pan..drive a few thousand miles, change again whats in pan. Reason is the bands are conditioned to the fluid, so its a drastic change from old worn out fluid to all new fluid.


I did manage to change the fluid in my VW bunny, made my own drain plug with ball valve using parts from home depot... cost me $12.00 cleaned and re-used OEM trans filter, reused the same trans pan seal, no way did it need replacing. and used Valvoline pure synthetic trans fluid that is rated for Audi/VW at $6.00 a quart.


Bunny shifts sooo smooth now... no more hiccup downshifting from 3rd gear.
 
#4 ·
POWER flush is bad, using the transmission itself for the flush is fine.

IF you have a transmission that is STILL using bands, maybe. Lots of car manufacturers
went with the muliplate brake method after Chrysler invented the Ultradrive, it was the
first automatic to have no bands or sprags, people followed suit. Be it a band or multiplate,
it's called a brake.

Basically, the band is a steel strap with friction material bonded to the inside surface. One end
of the band is anchored against the transmission case while the other end is connected to a servo.
At the appropriate time hydraulic oil is sent to the servo under pressure to tighten the band around
the drum to stop the drum from turning. Way way back, you used to be able to tighten the bands.

The multiplate brake is constructed in a similar manner to the multiplate clutch. It locks or holds a
rotating component of the planetary gear set to the case of the transmission. Hydraulic pressure
actuates the piston and return springs return the piston to the rest position in the clutch drum
when pressure is released. Friction discs are steel plates to which friction material is bonded. They
are always located between two steel plates. The friction disc inner diameter is slotted to fit over
the splines of the clutch hub, similar to the multiplate clutch; however, the steel plates spline to the
transmission case, thus providing an anchor. The band locks the whole planetary gear set by the shell.

There are two types of bands. Static, and Dynamic. Dynamic is like a sponge, the material holds
oil, but when applied the oil is squeezed out so the drum stops. Static is a harder material with
a high sheer strength and just grabs the drum.

One major rule is, if the transmission is a SEALED unit, never flush it. If you have no Dipstick,
plus no service interval listed in your manual, then you never service it. They're all using 100%
synthetic, and will last the lifetime of the car. The lifetime is conjecture too, when the trans
fails, that was the lifetime of it... The mercedes NAG1 is a lifetime transmission, you never have
to change the fluid or filter, but YOU CAN, and I have...

The danger is the POWER FLUSH, them pressuring fluid through it, NEVER do that. IF you want
to flush, use the transmissions own pumps and cooling lines, never pressure it through. The
power flush is done the opposite of fluid flow, this will dislodge anything trapped in the system,
because it goes the other direction. That can trap those dislodged particles in the torque
converter, and there lies the main problem. So, using the transmission itself, flushing in the direction of
flow is perfectly safe. The "crap" stays in the system, the new fluid flows over it... There are
two ways to flush this way, you can look it up.
 
#6 ·
With 127K miles, fluid and filter should be changed regardless. As fluid looses viscosity, and
the filter clogs up, then pressure in the trans is increased to compensate, but only to a
point. I would change the fluid and filter, then see what happens. In your case, you would
change it, run it, and change it again. If it was never done, and at 127K miles, you are
already at the 2nd time it should have been changed.
 
#7 ·
Thanks for taking that time to explain the flush.. that really is good to know! I took this trannies cherry.. even though it had no cherry.. but I did the first change out of fluid ever, and 127k I plan to do it again in another 3-5k I will then do the flush using the engine to cycle the fluid out. I compared the new filter and the oem filter and decided to just clean the oem. it has a flare that extends down into pan about 1/4 inch. the new filter does not. Currently ive driver about 200 miles and I can say with confidence it shifts so smooth you don't even notice the down shift, the up shifts I can only tell by hearing the engine. Im giving my self a pat on the back and Thanking those in this thread for the input!
 
#9 ·
Sure, I will post pics when I change again, which will be in the next month or two... no hurry to waste $30 bucks worth of trans fluid and its shifting great now. but I wouldn't mind knowing that all the fluid is new and these modern transmissions its aok to do so..
 
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