OK Purchased a 81 Diesel truck and have determined that the compression is leaking into the coolant. So that means pull the head and inspect the head for warp, cracks and the block for warp.

I looked at a Haynes manual and it was lacking a lot of details, so I ordered a Bentley Manual it will be here in 7 to 10 days.

I won't go very far without a manual to go by because this is my first diesel and don't want to screw anything up.

I did pull the valve cover no surprises so far, looks pretty clean.7265

Forgot to add this, The head bolts at socket head cap screws I was expecting to see a different style, Is this normal????

I'll drain coolant and take off the two water connections to the head. Other than that I'll wait until the manual arrives, or until someone sends me the correct steps to take.
Thanks

I used a Haynes manual for years and years to maintain my Rabbit. Personally the Haynes has better copies of he wiring diagrams, than the Bentley.

The head bolts come in 2 varieties, the 12mm Allen, and the 12mm Triple Square. Be Warned, that you need to use new head bolts, failure to do so may lead to premature failure of your new Head Gasket.... Trust me on this point, I know form first hand experience.

I bet you will find that the oil port between the 3, and 4 cylinder is failed....that is what is allowing the pressure build in the coolant. At least that is where it occurred on mine 2 times, yes I re-used the head bolts... when I bought new the gasket never failed again.

Since you will have it down that far, I would replace the water pump, timing belt, tensioner and passenger side motor mount.

Also you may want to go for the valve cover upgraded gasket from Germanautoparts it is less likely to leak. It is a one piece rubberized gasket that you will have to replace the studs for the valve cover.

To get the "c-clamps" back on the toilet bowl use a muffler clamp backwards.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/briano1234/under%20the%20hood/mufflerclamp.jpg

OK, I have seen this muffler clamp on the piece of strap with holes in it talked about a couple of times now. What is it doing? Is this an aid to take something off or put something on?? Newbie Here, LOL

Already have the new water pump.

Why would I have to replace the studs if I use an upgraded valve cover gasket??

I was planning on new head bolts, are the "Stretch" kind OK to use?

When I changed the oil I didn't see any signs of water in the oil so that was good news.

I will replace all the hoses also.

Thanks
Hager



I used a Haynes manual for years and years to maintain my Rabbit. Personally the Haynes has better copies of he wiring diagrams, than the Bentley.

The head bolts come in 2 varieties, the 12mm Allen, and the 12mm Triple Square. Be Warned, that you need to use new head bolts, failure to do so may lead to premature failure of your new Head Gasket.... Trust me on this point, I know form first hand experience.

I bet you will find that the oil port between the 3, and 4 cylinder is failed....that is what is allowing the pressure build in the coolant. At least that is where it occurred on mine 2 times, yes I re-used the head bolts... when I bought new the gasket never failed again.

Since you will have it down that far, I would replace the water pump, timing belt, tensioner and passenger side motor mount.

Also you may want to go for the valve cover upgraded gasket from Germanautoparts it is less likely to leak. It is a one piece rubberized gasket that you will have to replace the studs for the valve cover.

To get the "c-clamps" back on the toilet bowl use a muffler clamp backwards.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/briano1234/under%20the%20hood/mufflerclamp.jpg

That is to stretch the "c-clamp" out to get it back on. You can use a phillips to wing that sucker off, but don't get your face to close as it tends to fly off.

Because the new improved one piece gasket is re-enforced at the holes and require shoulderless studs.

Thanks Brian,

I am slowly putting this all together.

Hager


That is to stretch the "c-clamp" out to get it back on. You can use a phillips to wing that sucker off, but don't get your face to close as it tends to fly off.

Because the new improved one piece gasket is re-enforced at the holes and require shoulderless studs.

Thanks to the help of members here I have the engine in the TDC position.

I Googled the tools (sorry I forgot the poster so I cannot give credit it wasn't from this forum, but thanks) and found the dimensions for the cam position tool.

I modified it slightly so it could be bolted to the valve cover screws, so it will stay in position after it is removed. Guess that wasn't necessary now that I think about it, LOL.

Also made a little locater shaft to hold the fuel pump in time during all of this.

Start disassembly after a little lunch.

Hager

My Manual arrived Hurray!!!

Reading it and got a new question.

Pg 17 in attached photo it talks about turning the "hand-turn the camshaft", In this point in time the timing belt is still on, no way can you turn that by hand.

I'm thinking to turn it with a socket wrench until the cam tool takes up the slack in the groove then measure the open side and divide by 2 and place a feeler gage under both sides of that size. This positions the cam groove parallel to the head and in the correct cam timing position.

Since I am taking the head off I don't think I need to do this until I put the head back on. Then be sure the two cam lobes are UP and then set the can groove parallel to the head using the method above. CORRECT??

Thanks
Hager

OK maybe I'm being a pain in the back side but since the last owner replaced the timing belt I have a suspension that he didn't get the cam timing correct.

I turned the crank so that the "0" on the crank was exactly in the center of the notch inside the inspection hole and took a picture of that, then took a picture of the Cam position.

The cam position is a little off shouldn't it be closer than this with the CShaft at "0"?

Or am I just a worry wart and being nosy 7276

Don't worry about the proper timing now, as you are going to remove the head anyway.
When you have the head off you can then rotate the engine by hand to verify that the number one cylinder is up to the timing mark on the rear of the tranny.

Then set your cam to the proper position prior to installation. And yes it should be flat or parallel to the valve cover flat.

Once you get the head Bolted down, then you can reset the thing properly, and if you have to move it then it is a dance between
moving the crank, then the cam then the crank then the head..... it is a PITA as you have to get up or down, but it can be done as I have had to do that before, you just have to go about it real easy so you don't damage the valves.

That's what I thought so I went ahead and pulled the head yesterday afternoon.

The second cylinder from the left was the one where the gasket failed (what number is this? haven't seen a diag. w/numbers) Looks like they had tried some kind of leak fix all, thick material on head in that area. Here's the pictures of the head gasket, 2nd from left is the bad cylinder.

Couldn't find my feeler gage so I'll pick one up as soon as the stores open and see if the head or block is warped.

When I go to add pictures section all the pictures I have ever posted appear in the box and I am almost maxed out on the size. Could I delete those pictures that appear or would that erase the pictures in my posts?

Hager





Don't worry about the proper timing now, as you are going to remove the head anyway.
When you have the head off you can then rotate the engine by hand to verify that the number one cylinder is up to the timing mark on the rear of the tranny.

Then set your cam to the proper position prior to installation. And yes it should be flat or parallel to the valve cover flat.

Once you get the head Bolted down, then you can reset the thing properly, and if you have to move it then it is a dance between
moving the crank, then the cam then the crank then the head..... it is a PITA as you have to get up or down, but it can be done as I have had to do that before, you just have to go about it real easy so you don't damage the valves.

The manual says to check the head and block for warp, top to bottom, side to side and diagonally around each cylinder using a 5mm feeler gage.

I checked it with a 4mm feeler (just to be on the safe side) and there isn't any warp in either the head or block. Looks like it was just a blown head gasket.

Got parts ordered and they should arrive Tuesday to start reassembly.

Cannot find source of a 11mm thread cleaning tap to clean out the threads in the block, as I remember the book says not to use a standard tap. Can anyone tell me where I can find one???

Thanks
Hager

Exactly where is the "oil Port"

Thanks



I bet you will find that the oil port between the 3, and 4 cylinder is failed....that is what is allowing the pressure build in the coolant. At least that is where it occurred on mine 2 times, yes I re-used the head bolts... when I bought new the gasket never failed again.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/briano1234/under%20the%20hood/mufflerclamp.jpg

Looks like it was leaking at the number 2 and 3 cyl. The oil port is between the 3 and 4 cyl in the front the large oblong hole.

You can clean the bolt holes out with some PB-blaster and compressed air. Then you can use a old head bolt to clean the threads.
repeat with the pb blaster and air.

Thanks Brian.
The approx, 3/4" hole is very clear no clogging that I could see. Is that large opening the return from the head or the line to the head?
Sprayed the head bolt holes full of PB-Blaster will let it soak until tomorrow, then use the clean head bolt and compressed air as you suggested.

Thanks
Hager

In the pic, the Yellow circle is where they usually has a "O" type ring that was on the inside of that circle, it is a oil port. That is where mine always would leak from.

The Orange is the main oil scupper hole that goes all the way back to the oil pump.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y65/briano1234/head/headdiesel.jpg

Thanks Brian, I see and understand, but that was not the cylinder that failed it was 2nd from belt end of engine.
And looking closer I FOUND the reason, there is a slight dent in the head where something circular was dropped on it. The dent extends from the cooling port through the metal seal of the cylinder!
It is pretty deep, could anything be done short of milling the head to fill it???

Hager

If it is just a dent, then clean it really good and you could use that "trick aluminum" solder and fill it, or jb-weld fill it sand it down.

If you mill it down, then you may have to double stack the gasket to keep clearance.

Yes I was thinking of JB-Weld also it is pretty tough stuff.

Thanks
Hager

First order was to fill up that dent between the combustion chamber to the coolant channel:
Method 1: Welding the aluminum, eliminated welding because it would require milling, then I would have to use two head gaskets, I am doubtful that the milling Tech might not know how much to cut off for the two head gasket method to work.

Method 2: Some type of filler. I looked at several including xx , I sent queries to several manufactures without one response.
I settled on ThermoSteel by CarGo. It is a High-Temp metal repair with heat resistance up to 2400 F, it focuses on exhaust manifolds, headers, catalytic converters and the like. I filled the dent making the fill a little high. 17 hours later I filed and smoothed the material flush with the surface. The dent was very shallow but the material stuck to the surface. It looks good so I decided to risk it.

Since I was using new head bolts I cut the heads of two bolts off and slightly rounded them. These were used to hold the head gasket in place and as guide pins to aid in lowering the head onto the block/gasket accurately without possibly damaging the gasket.

Torqued the head bolts down, and then since I was using a upgrade valve cover gasket which could only be used on their studs so the original studs had to be removed, all went well except one stud. It broke off about 1/8" above the flange. Ground a slot in the exposed part and tried using a screwdriver but the side of the stud broke off when I tried to turn it.
I ground the broken stud off down to the flange. Center punched it was drilling a hole to use a Easy Out on it. Boy those studs are HARD, only got about 3/8" into the hole with a new bit and tapping oil when the bit broke off inside the hole, BUMMER.
Next I tried grinding a notch on the side of the flange and use a hammer and tool to try and twist it out, no luck.
Don't have a welder or I might stick a rod to the screw and try twisting it out.

OK got a broken stud with a broken bit inside, how can I get it out??

Any suggestions???

Well been there done that. But not on a head, I usually always take it to a machine shop. I quite using easy outs years ago. I use Left handed drill bits.

A left handed drill bit and a hammer drill will usually get out most Stuck Bolts. Spray with PB-Blaster, wait 20 minutes, and LHDB and reverse on the drill and that bolt will back right out.

It may be time to call in the professionals.

Left have drill bit and impact drill sounds good, but I already had the head mounted and went the alternate route yesterday.

Drilled another hole beside the other, and cut the fancy new gasket that had a sheet on metal embedded in the center and built in colliers, placed aluminum foil on the head so the silicone gasket maker would not stick to it, put a screw in the hole, then placed the cut off part of the gasket beside the screw and siliconed around it attaching the piece to the rest of the gasket. Then elongated the hole in the valve cover and metal hold downs. It will work, just a lot of extra hassle.

Yesterday I loosened the cam sprocket and with the crankshaft on "0" the Fuel Pump (FP)was off what looked to be 1 tooth. Removed the belt and turned the FP until the timing pin went into the hole. But in the process of getting the timing belt back on the crankshaft (CS) had moved away from "0" CS mark. Stopped work at that point for the night.

This morning with the belt on I'll will pull the pin out of the fuel pump and turn the flywheel setting the "0" mark again and see where the FP hole is, if it is off as I suspect, I'll take the belt off again. I'll put the transmission in 5th gear hoping that will hopefully keep the CS from moving and turn the FP and put the belt back on. ( I didn't put the transmission in gear before, I think I should have) And follow steps 4 through 7 and hope that everything stays lined up.

I have a couple of hours before I start the above while I make a Tensioning tool, so if you can please comment on my approach.

Thanks Brian

Ya gotta get it right, it is a pita, but ya gotta get-r-done.

Got it all back together set crank shaft to "0" fuel pump pin in place, can shaft position set. Remove fuel pump pin, ritated the engine two revolutions and set crank shaft on "0", cam shaft timing right on, and the fuel pump pin slid right in. Timings good.
After connecting up all the misc bits and pieces and filled the fuel filter up I tried to start it.

Cranks strong but no sign of starting, Hmmmm. I did wait for the glow plug light to go off so that wasn't the issue. Glow plugs connect to the main power, glow plug fuse is OK.

What next???

Bleed the fuel at the injectors, that is loosen then then tighten. Have some one crank the engine and bleed the injector by loosening and retightening. I have had to do that all the way back to the IP injector manifold.

I Googled that last night and found the same potential solution, I feel very good about this.

Do I need to bleed the pump first where the lines are connected to it or is bleeding the individual lines enough?
Do I need to do this starting with the longest line and do the other 3 in order, so that you bleed all the lines?

When you bleed the fuel system at the injectors is it like bleeding brakes in that you do not stop cranking the engine with the fitting open so it doesn't suck air back into the lines?

1 Crank engine
2 Crack fitting
3 Let it run till it is a solid flow
4 Tighten fitting
5 Stop cranking engine.

Thanks Brian




Bleed the fuel at the injectors, that is loosen then then tighten. Have some one crank the engine and bleed the injector by loosening and retightening. I have had to do that all the way back to the IP injector manifold.

I totally loosened the fuel lines at the injectors and ran the starter probably a total of 2 minutes over a 5 minute period (with the glow plug lead disconnected) and the gas pedal to the floor. I see fuel coming out of the connection. I can't really see the stream because of the steel lines hold them tight against the injectors but fuel is coming out.

I checked the glow plug voltage and it is getting 12V also the stop solenoid is getting 12 V.

Tried to start again with the start knob pulled out and in, and still no firing at all.

Do you think it is still air locked at this point after 2 minutes of bleeding?

What to do next????

Loosen the Fuel lines next at the ip manifold, that is you have to loosen the injector pipe from the manifold.
Is there any air bubbles at the clear line?

Otherwise I would look at the timing one more time.

After I put the belt on and tensioned it, I rotated the engine 2 turns, and put the flywheel right on the zero mark. The camshaft slot was perfectly parallel to the head and the two lobes nearest the timing sprocket were up. I then took the fuel pump timing pin and it slid perfectly through the fuel pump sprocket and into the fuel pump housing hole. And the mark on the fuel pump sprocket and on the fuel pump are in line. I think that the timing is right on. Does it sound like it is to you?

I checked the clear line between the fuel filter and the fuel pump and there weren't any bubbles.

The battery is getting a little low and I read that it must spin the engine quickly for it to start, I'll get it charged tomorrow.

The only thing I can think of is that there is still air either the fuel pump of in the lines between the fuel pump and injectors.

When I was setting the timing and getting everything lined up I did rotate the engine with the fuel filter off and the injector steel lines off, could the fuel have pump lost it's prime then? But when I crank the engine with the lines loose on the injectors fuel does come out. So it doesn't look like the FP prime is lost.

Frustration Central here buddy.

Plan tomorrow:
Get battery charged.
Bleed lines at injectors again. Gas pedal all the way to floor and with glow plug wiring disconnected.
Tighten lines again, glow plug wiring connected and try and start it. Would starting fluid help????

The gas tank is almost empty, should I add a couple gallons of fuel, grasping at straws here??

Any other suggestions??
Thanks Brian

Did all the above and it started let it run about 5 minutes. Shut off and it started right back up.

However it is smoking now white-blue but it wasn't smoking before. Any suggestions?

Thanks
Hager

I just changed oil and naturally there was water in it from before I replaced the head gasket. And I had replaced the head gasket and fixed the head dent and started it up with the old oil oil in it and it smoked.

After the oil change no more smoke to speak of, knock on wood.
OK I'll run it awhile and see what happens.

Hager

Drove about 20 miles, temp gage stayed right in the middle, Good.

It was a little smoky when I started and rough running, the longer I drove the better it ran and less smoking.

So far so good but got my fingers crossed, have a couple of other issues I'll post.

Thanks for the help.

Hager

Sorry for not commenting but I do occasionally sleep and I work the grave yard, so when you posted I was either still asleep getting woke up or having dinner. And the one time that I was checking the interweb I missed this.

But glad ya got'er going. Yes doing the head will let a/f in to the manifold and suck so white smoke isn't to unusual. I wouldn't of tried starting it with a/f in the oil as a/f can pit the Mains really quickly.

Same case here, I just purchased this oil pump (http://www.thepartsbin.com/brands/amo/amo_oil_pump.html) yesterday. I hope this thing works.

Hey guys. I'm about to start this job too. I'm wondering if it's safe to replace the hex style head bolts with these tri-point bolts from germanautoparts.com ( http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Rabbit/Engine/21/1 ). Was asking since I need to put in a new set and I can't seem to find just allen style bolts.