After doing much reading I have determined that I need to pull the head and make a decision what steps to take after checking the head and block conditions.

The deciding factor was that a rubber glove placed over the water filler inflated to a soft inflate after 30 seconds. :(
Test conditions, Cold Engine, secure rubber glove with rubber glove, start engine, see if leaking compression gets into the cooling system.

I have ordered the Bentley Manual but it won't get here for a week and I would like to get started ASAP.

Could someone share the instructions on pulling the head, and if you could do photos or drawings even better.

Thanks

Hager

disconnect the battery
Remove the injector lines at the injectors, and at the manifold at the back of the pump.
Remove the Valve cover.
Place the engine at 0 time. Tranny/crank to the finger mark, the cam is able to have a flat steel bar inserted in the rear even to the head.
Loosen the tensioner.
Remove the intake manifold
"pop" off the c-clamps on the exhaust.
remove the throttle and cold start cable
remove the glow plug batter wire.
You might get to skip this step as it has been over 10 years since I had to do this remove the injector pump (loosen the nut about 3 revs, then smack the nut with a small hammer be careful as there is the woodruff key.

Drain the coolant
Remove the Radiator hoses off the front and side water outlets.
Remove the Wire off the oil pressure switch
Loosen the Head bolts in reverse order of tightening.

Coolant will get into the pistons a wee bit, so be sure to clean them out, and replace the oil before you fire it back up.

In the day I could R&R the head gasket in about 3 hours.... Practice makes perfect, and all I had was a Haynes Manual.

THANK YOU...THANK YOU...THANK YOU... For the step by step writeup.

I'll start in the morning

Hager


disconnect the battery
Remove the injector lines at the injectors, and at the manifold at the back of the pump.
Remove the Valve cover.
Place the engine at 0 time. Tranny/crank to the finger mark, the cam is able to have a flat steel bar inserted in the rear even to the head.
Loosen the tensioner.
Remove the intake manifold
"pop" off the c-clamps on the exhaust.
remove the throttle and cold start cable
remove the glow plug batter wire.
You might get to skip this step as it has been over 10 years since I had to do this remove the injector pump (loosen the nut about 3 revs, then smack the nut with a small hammer be careful as there is the woodruff key.

Drain the coolant
Remove the Radiator hoses off the front and side water outlets.
Remove the Wire off the oil pressure switch
Loosen the Head bolts in reverse order of tightening.

Coolant will get into the pistons a wee bit, so be sure to clean them out, and replace the oil before you fire it back up.

In the day I could R&R the head gasket in about 3 hours.... Practice makes perfect, and all I had was a Haynes Manual.

It may be a few steps short....... Refer to the Haynes.....when in Doubt.

Is this the timing mark? Removed plastic plug from tranny case. If so how do you know if it on the compression stroke? It may be 360 deg off.

Here are pictures of the right and left side of the camshaft, could you tell if it is TDC compression stroke from the cam position?

Thanks
Hager

If that is the flywheel TDC then according to the groove on the end of the camshaft I think the camshaft is one tooth off. The previous owner said he put a new timing belt on.

The groove on the camshaft is off center so this it the relative correct cam position I think. 7272

Comments?

Thanks
Hager

If it is one tooth off that will destroy a head, if it don't outright destroy it, I know that the valves will be contacted by the pistons. Yes that should be crank at 0 on the tranny, (be sure that it is the 0 mark ) and the lobes on the cam number one should be pointing up, and the notch on the back of the cam flat and parallel to the head. I used the metal ruler out of my Stanley Combination Square for the bar, and it worked real good and was cheap.

Thanks, I was turning the crankshaft and that square piece was the first thing different I saw, LOL. Turned it a little further and the "0" appeared and the two lobes are up and the groove at the end of the cam is parallel so, Houston we have No 1 TDC.

OK that's enough for tonight. I have a old craftsman lathe so I'll make a fuel pump pulley pin and a camshaft holding tool.

Thanks for all you excellent help Brian

Hager


If it is one tooth off that will destroy a head, if it don't outright destroy it, I know that the valves will be contacted by the pistons. Yes that should be crank at 0 on the tranny, (be sure that it is the 0 mark ) and the lobes on the cam number one should be pointing up, and the notch on the back of the cam flat and parallel to the head. I used the metal ruler out of my Stanley Combination Square for the bar, and it worked real good and was cheap.

For the ip pulley, I rummaged around in my bolt box, and found the perfect bolt to hold it.
I can't remember what it came off of to tell you what kind of bolt to look for.